View Full Version : Shifter control issues
uncljohn
09-22-2005, 08:43 AM
A few weeks ago I noticed when in the neutral position that I could hear gears clicking, like they were trying to go into gear but not quite making it. Note this was in neutral. Then I began noticing that I would bring it into neutral but it would still be in gear. I finally figured that if I pulled the throttle/shifter sllightly past neutral, that it would truly disengage the gears and the clicking would stop. This was only a problem when I'd try to restart in the "past-neutral" position, which wouldn't work. Not too big a deal.
However last Saturday I found that I could not get into reverse gear at all, the gears would grind but not engage. This could mean the end to my season. I'm going to take tomorrow off to inspect the connections at the control box and on the engine to see if anything is loose, then I'll trace the shifter cables to see if I have a kink in the line. If that fails, then its off to the mechanic and most likely into winter storage. [sad]
Anyone have any other ideas? Its an 87 Yamaha w/ same year control box, single lever.
Lone Ranger
09-23-2005, 10:14 PM
Check all of your cable connections at the engine.possible a cable holdown came loose.Could also be a stretched cable.Disconnect the shift cable at the Engine and shift it by hand,IF it shifts in and out of gear ok then,You know it is not the lower unit.[Mike]
uncljohn
09-26-2005, 09:31 AM
Unfortunately the control box connections were all fine, and the cable moves freely in both directions. The "lever" on the engine seems to travel properly too, so I'm guessing its an internal/lower unit issue. May be time to repower instead of throwing a couple grand at all the repairs/maintainence things I need done....[sad]
Lone Ranger
10-03-2005, 07:15 PM
What brand and H.p. Motor do you have?
uncljohn
10-04-2005, 09:22 AM
87 yamaha 200hp. All original controls. I'm pretty much leaning towards this being the excuse to repower. I have a long list of maintainence to perform, so instead of throwing a couple grand at an 18 y.o. engine, I'll throw a couple grand at a downpayment for a brand new one.
R.J Fish
10-04-2005, 12:41 PM
I am having the same problem with exact same symptoms.Mechanic told me the shift rod is twisted due to rusting awav it is not stainless.Shift rod needs to be replaced unfortunatly the shift rod installs from the top of the lower unit.The power head has to be removed to do this repair I was told estimated cost about 3000.00.Ithink I will try this myself I will let you know how it goes.
R.J Fish
10-04-2005, 12:44 PM
By the way I have a 200 1991 yamaha they changed the shift rod to stainless in 1992.Cost of shift rod around 60.00.
Bob H.
10-04-2005, 07:46 PM
Check out iboats.com. Iboats has repair forums for all makes & models. $3000 to pull a powerhead. No wonder I stick with Merc's.
Some mechanic must have an ex-wife and kids to feed.
Lone Ranger
10-04-2005, 08:47 PM
I'm with ya' on that one Bob!!
OUTCAST1
10-08-2005, 09:03 AM
Most outboards have an adjustment and jamnut on the outboard where the shift cable is clamped down. Since yours gradually got worse, it sounds like this adjustment (mine's a thumbwheel) jamnut is not tightened down.
rabbitdawg
10-08-2005, 07:56 PM
I would bet on the shift rod being rusted to the point it becomes like a piece of spaghetti and only twists when the control is moved. If you look closely it will probably be at the point just above where the lower unit attaches to the mid section where it is exposed to the salt. This is a very common problem on older yamahas. It can take a lot of hours to get the powerhead off if the bolts that hold the head to the midsection are badly corroded as they almost always are. Most of the corrossion will be hidden inside of the bolt holes.
J. Nooney Carolina Marine Repair Angier NC 919-625-1682
R.J Fish
10-18-2005, 05:48 PM
Well I went to work with wy son pulling the power head to change the shift rod. After inspection the rod was 16th of a inch thick at the bottom.Took 3hr to remove the power head with the help of a torch and air hammer .We had to drill through the exhaust housing to cut off 3 broken bolts new exhaust housing 300.oo .Decided to change the steering bracket also it is rusted badly.Total parts cost with bolts and bushings 900.00.Motor it run great so I think 900.00 and sweat is worth it considering a mechanic told me 3500.00 to do the repair .I am waiting for parts now will post to let you all know how the finshed job works out.
uncljohn
10-19-2005, 08:08 AM
I've pulled the trigger for new power. Should have a new 200hp Yammy EFI on it in a few weeks. Using the repair costs as a downpayment and I'll have 2 years of worry-free boating courtesy of Yamaha.
R.J Fish
10-19-2005, 04:40 PM
Good luck to you uncljohn with your new power.I would really like to repower but I just bought the gradey in july and a truck last week.No funds but the motor runs good. Good luck next time we talk lets talk fishin I'm from the middle river area.
Rob Allen
10-19-2005, 08:48 PM
UJ -
where did you end up finding your new Engine if you don't mind me asking??
Rob
uncljohn
10-20-2005, 08:22 AM
Tri-State. New 2003 Saltwater Series. In stock and can be installed w/in 1 week. You can b-mail Boatron if you're interested.