HELP! Water in my OUTDRIVE

[night nurse]

I did a nice day on the water, the boat ran just fine. Back home changed the lower unit lube and out poured clear water. Then some mucky dark oil. The screws did have some fine metal debirs. Let it drain for a hour or so and refilled it. I am thinking of test running it or should it go right to the shop. What say You ????
BTW it's a 2001 Johnson ocean pro 200Hp with 605 hours


TED

[BUDC]

Personaly, I'd have both seals put in new and check the shaft for mono wear. If you're luckier than me, maybe you could refill and run for a day, but I'm not so lucky.
budc

[bottom scratcher]

Fine metal shavings is normal. As long as you don't have heavy pieces you should be OK.

The only way to detect the leak is to do a pressure and vacuum test. I always make sure to install new gaskets on the drain and fill screw when I change the lower unit lube. I've done alot of OMC lowers and found that the biggest culprit is the seals under the water pump. With the age of your engine, I'd put my money on it Those seal are under $15 for both and maybe $70 for the water pump kit.

The other area to look at is the shift shaft O rings. Those are under a buck each and a simple fix.
You're looking at about an hours work if you can do it yourself. Good luck.

[night nurse]

Thanks I got a day to burn and now I know how to burn it!

TED

[27 sailfish]

Be sure to pull your prop and check for fishing line.
Smart to do this 1-2 times a year.
Any line can work into the seal and damage it but the newer braids are awful.
You can pick up line running - it does not have to come from people on your boat.

Too late now - good for future. Smart to drain lower unit after your last trip of the year. Putting in fresh lube assures no water - which can freeze and do more damage over the winter. I've seen lower unit cases burst from freezing.

Lower units are pretty tough - once you get new seals and fresh lube - should be fine.

[night nurse]

OK, so this is whats been done so far.
1. first drain came with a lot of water.
2. pulled the prop lookin for fishing line, it was clean.
3. ran the boat for a few hours
4. drained again, about 1/2 oz of water. refilled
5. ran for a few hours, drained looks good. re-filled.
All this time the boat runs great. SO NOW WHAT???
I am thinkin I will have it re-sealed after the spring rush and keep re-filling the outdrive.
What Say You?


TED

[Bob H.]

Replace the seals now rather than later. Gears are expensive, water is a lousy lubricant, and the seals will only get worse. Water is also adding to the volume of fluid in the LU. The extra volume has to go somewhere when it gets hot - out the seal. Might as well replace the water pump while it's all apart. It's an easy job unless the the LU hasn't been apart in a few years.

[night nurse]

I thought I had to take it in to a Marine Mech to replace the seals. I am not to shabby ding my own work but the seals I thought had to be pressed in with a hydrolic press. Was I wrong?

TED

[WildeOne]

No press needed. They're driven in using an appropriate pilot (deep socket, etc.).

[night nurse]

Humm I think I need to look in to this further.

TED