OT-Need Help, Rod Holder with screws that have worn through the wood

[Carson MAC]

Got a Rod holder were the screws have worn through the wood in the gunnel and are more then stripped. The problem is the manufacturer cut the whole too big with the drill and there was very little wood between the insert pole of the rod holder and the screw that locks it down. After some wear and tear the wood has been worn off and the screws have nothing to bite into. There is no way of fixing it that I know of. The wood is gone and the hole has already been cut. Any thoughts on how to fix? Cutting a new hole and patching the old one is my last option. Thanks,

Carson

[Sea Gator]

I think I understand your issue, You can take the rod holder out and fill with in the hole some with an epoxy to make the hole smaller, you can also fill in the screw holes with epoxy and the scews will be able to bite again. You can use west system epoxy with a filler to make a puddy to suit your needs. If the wood has lost its body you can use a product called git-rot which is a thin epoxy that will wick into the loose wood and set up. Also instead of using a wood screw see if you have room for a machined scew so you can use a fender washer and self locking nut on the underside. You can get a #8, #10 or 1/4 inch ovel head machine screw that looks just like a head of a wood screw. YOu may have to use 1 wood screw and be able to use two machine screws. I hope I am on track and my comments are helpful. Good Luck.

[ragnad]

Many years ago, my uncle repaired the binding on my water skis by stuffing wooden toothpicks into the hole where the wood had been worn by the screw. He put the screw back in and it "bit" on one side to the toothpicks and on the other to the remaining wood on the ski. Friction was enough to hold the toothpick side in place. I used the skis for several years after that.

Since then, I have applied the same trick when screws have pulled - using sections of thin wooden dowels instead of toothpicks. I usually use some wood glue to help the dowel section to stay in place in the screw hole.

[bob the welder]

You can fix the problem easily by installing a stainless backing plate. The plate goes on the underside of the gunnel and use nuts and bolts to secure in place.
If you call me at (410)913-1249 give me the width and legnth desired I'll cut 1 or more for you.

[OC Local]

I had the same problem. Install a SS backing plate under the gunnel for all of your holders. If one has this problem, it's only a matter of time before others fail.

[RAYMOND RHODES]

Carson

Call bob above or me. Backing plate is the way to go, OC is right, may as well do them all at 1 time.

[Carson MAC]

Ragnad hit the nail on the head as far as what I was thinking for fixing the broken one. I looked at the other ones and they are starting to go too. Had used a planer in this holder so I'm sure thats what happened. Back plates it is. Just don't know how to get them in since the gunnel is glassed in. Thanks again,

Carson

[twobyfour]

Whazup Car? You may want to let them know you don't have access to the backside of your gunnels. If you did you would have used machine screws w/nuts and washers instead of wood screws.

[lmontagnaj]

Carson:
You can add an access hatch for easy access. I have had to do the same in the past to access a line on my old boat. It makes life a lot easier.

I second the west system, then install the backing plate, especially anywhere you might put a planer. Lots of stress from planers eat up a gunnell pretty quick.

Good Luck...

[Fishwagon.]

I use epoxy putty to repair screw holes on doors, cabinet doors, etc when I have to move them over 1/16th of an inch. It comes in marine grade, and becomes drillable, screwable, etc. It is usually as simple as kneading some, filling the hole, and screwing it.

If I need to pour epoxy into a rotten area or similar that will not hold the liquid long enough for it to set, I use 1-minute epoxy (such as bought at Home depot, in the syringe with the self-mixing tip) to fill the holes and crevasses, before pouring a longer setting epoxy.

(this probably wont be the answer, but I just figured id share what works well with cabinet doors, rotten gates, etc)