Took the boat out for the first time in 3 months because my job took me overseas. I stabilized the gas and tried to lay the engines up properly before I left. Took my boy out for a ride Sunday afternoon and the boat ran great for 30-45 minutes, but when we picked up to go to one last fishing hole the port engine acted as though it was running out of gas. I had over a half a tank. Well limped back in on one engine but was able to get the port engine running at the launch. When I tried to throttle her up by depressing the button on the side of the throttle she will get up to about 3000 rpm and start surging between 2800 and 3500 rpm and go no higher. I tried this in the driveway with cooling water supplied with the garden hose and the same thing was going on with both engines. Is this normal?
I changed out the fuel hose on the port side because that had not been done since I purchased the boat. Also replaced both fuel/water filter elements and checked for tightness in all fittings. Tried to run the port engine on an auxiliary tank and it did the same thing. They only have 100 hours on them. I will take it to the dealer if I can't find an easy fix any suggestions? Thanks
I have these same motors. When they rev that way they are kicking into safety mode.Which will not allow them to go over 3500 RPMs. I've had the same issues on and off over past couple of years, fortunately nothing serious. I agree with BenoitBalls22, check the filters first. Then go from there. Last week I had one motor suck up some grass and switch into safety mode until I cleared the grass and cooled the motor down.
My Suzuki DT70 is doing the same thing right now after sucking up bad gas from the bottom of the tank. I'm going to check the internal filter. My mechanic said if that doesn't do it, there is probably water up in the engine that needs to be drained out.
Had a similar problem with my Johnson Ocean Runner 150. Problem started after I added a fuel treatment. Caused the funk in bottom of my tank to be pulled through the system & quickly fouled my fuel/water seperator. Change filters and keep spares on hand. They will continue to foul until your fuel system is clear. I'm continuing with the treatment and changing filters at first signs of poor performance. Kinda pricey, but necessary.
Thanks for all the input did all that was said already except the inline on the back of the engine ordered those yesterday will replace asap and take a test drive Thurs or Fri. hoping to head to Tower A this weekend weather permitting. I got the best deal on filters through a company on line called Hustler I'm talking the suzuki/racor type water separator filters external to the engine 10 micron and they also sell a 2 or 4 micron anyone tried these? Google suzuki hustler marine or call 815-385-4848. It may be cheaper in the long run to just switch out to a racor the whole assembly will run around $60 but replacement elements should be cheaper and more available than a suzuki filter/separator.
Not sure what your problem is exactly...however it does sound like a fuel related issue though.....There is an internal fuel filter that if it get dosed with water it is done for....but if you have a properly maintained (changed frequently) water/fuel seperator that filter should never get exposed to water.
When the engine is in neutral it will not run over 3000RPM (Safety issues)
The Suzuki (Racor) filters are competitively priced with racor....
If you like give us a call and we'll try to help you out over the phone. You can talk to me, Doug or Jimmy 621-7700 our mechanic who is a graduate of Marine Mechanics Institute and has gone to all of the Suzuki schools.
Unless you are very familiar with the Suzuki engine I would refrain from going to far in trying to resolve the problem without the proper manuals and computer diagnostic system.
We see several engines per month that a friend of a friend who used to be a mechanic have tried to "fix" a problem and just made it worse. These 4 stroke outboards (all Mfgrs) are very sophisticated and like a car engine you really need the proper manuals and test equipment etc to work on them.