First rod build

[CRYSTAL_CLEAR_D]

I got everything ready to build my first rod and just got done prepping the grips and epoxied the rear grip on.

Quick question - if I don't get a snug fit on the rear grip (slides all the way to the blanks end), is it OK to wrap a piece of 1/4" tape along the blank to make a tighter fit?

I watched the DOC SKI videos and they were great, but left a couple of questions with me, so I emailed him and put my number at the bottom of the email. I couldn't believe he took the time to call me and talk about the questions I had! I was pretty jazzed...So while we are talking I told him I was going out to Oxnard, CA next week and he offered to get together! How cool is that? Certainly gonna try and get together if our schedules permit...what a great chance to learn some tips and tricks!



Sean

[BYRD]

Wow that is cool. I watched his video also. Yes you can put tape on the butt to fill some gap or make it a tighter fit. I started building rods 3 years ago. I have made over 30 to date. If you have any questions, I'll be happy to help. I hope you get to sit down with Doc!!, talk about a once in a lifetime opportunity!

[LandingCrew]

ya doc is a great guy, he has some awesome knowledge, i worked with him for few rods here and there when i was stationed out in ca. ask questions he is one of the inovators and teachers. and like byrd said if you have questions ASK ive done over 200 rods in the last 4 years, inbetween deployements. and i know kevin aka flatliner has knowledge to share also so ask and enjoy.

[FLATLINER]

Exactly how loose is it? That could be troublesome. For a rod that won't see too much action, it will probably be ok. For a rod that sees tough action (offshore or other heavy fish), it will break loose. When reeming out the EVA to apply to the blank, you should reem it out so that when you place the EVA on the blank and let it fall down the blank, it stops above the place that you want it to be positioned on the blank. By doing this, this insures that the grip will be tight enough to adhere fully to the blank. These grips do see a lot of torque and when you apply twisting pressure, I would be worried about it popping loose. When that happens, there is little that can be done to rectify the situation other than stripping the rod and rebuilding.
By building up the blank, you will be expanding the OD of the grip. That may not be the most beneficial thing to do.

If you are not in a hurry, I would recommend getting another EVA and reapplying.

Where are you located?
It may be alright with you, but I am just being Devil's advocate and throwing out the long term drawbacks.
I hope it works out.
Im well over 1500 in 25 years. I lost count!!!

Make the time to sit down with Doc. You will regret it in the future if you don't. He is a wealth of knowledge. He dresses funny, but is still a wealth of knowledge, none the less!!!

[rhahn427]

Doc is great ....... he's always willing to help ....... Here's what I do.

Get some fiberglass wallboard tape mesh. The kind you use to spackle wallboard joints. It's available at any hardware store and cheap.

Wrap it around the blank enough times so that it covers the whole length of the grip. Test fit the handle to make sure the handle fits snug but not too tight. Take the handle off and cover the mesh with Devon 2 ton epoxy or equvalent ....... I think Kevin prefers PC7. Work it into the mesh until it is thru the mesh and on the blank. Saturate it if you can without getting too sloppy. Put the rear grip back on with a twisting motion to work it into the grip too. . Put the grip in its final position and let it dry.

Sometimes it helps to put a couple of hot glue spots on the mesh before applying the epoxyThis will better hold the mesh in place when putting the grip on.

It also helps the adhesion of the epoxy if you scuff the part of the blank to be covered just a little with sandpaper and wipe with a little denatured alcohol and dry to take off any sanding dust.

If you just try to put the grip on with just epoxy and no tape or mesh you will probably have an uncentered grip. Tape or mesh wraps on the blank will keep the grip centered.

There are 2 schools of thought . Some like to use masking tape and some like fiberglass mesh. I like the mesh because it is made of fiberglass wich will not deteriorate and it is an open mesh which allows the epoxy to bond everything from the grip to the blank. Tape does not let much if any epoxy get to the blank where the tape is on the blank so it tape could breakfree with very heavy twisting. Since the mesh allows epoxy from the grip t the blank, I believe there would be less of a chance with ti breaking free because the epoxy is stronger than the blank itself.

Just my opinion. Hope it helps

[FLATLINER]

Definately not PC7 for the grips. Its consistancy which has a low vicosity will not allow the grip to slide. Rod Bond will be fine for that. Also, I think the EVA might not work well with the mesh because it will either push the mesh down the blank or roll under the EVA. For a reelseat, you are absolutely correct. EVA is a different beast though.

[CRYSTAL_CLEAR_D]

Thanks for the help guys

The rear cork grip wasn't real loose...it stopped an inch and a half from the end of the blank (just closer than I wanted). I could easily push it to the end of the blank without any force. I used a dream reamer to do the job...the second smallest reamer really took a lot out (60 grit verses the higher grit on the smallest reamer).

It's a light spinning rod, and I don't plan on using it too much on big fish. Mostly specs, schoolie stripers, spot, croaker, and such. I figured I would start with a cheaper rod than say a live bait or offshore rod - work my way up to more expensive components as I feel I am getting better and my confidence builds.

The build consists of a ATC Spinning 6' 1pc. 6-10# blank, St. Croix handle set (HKS-2), and the ATC spinning guide set (6S). Using Rod Bod and other U-40 products to finish the rod. Might switch to Flex Coat for finishing though...plan on wrapping everything in size A thread (my thought is it is a light duty rod so I won't need to use size C thread), but don't know what colors I am going to use...something with blue though.

I am not using anything expensive on this rod. It's my first build and want to see how it comes out and how addicted I become to the craft, which is already a little scary.

Another question - what's the best way to take pictures of the thread work without the picture getting washed out by flash? I tried without the flash and it just doesn't get detailed enough. I've been practicing wrapping underwraps with inlays and wrapping guides on a scrap blank...

Kevin - I'm in NC.



Sean

[rhahn427]

Definately not PC7 for the grips. Its consistancy which has a low vicosity will not allow the grip to slide. Rod Bond will be fine for that. Also, I think the EVA might not work well with the mesh because it will either push the mesh down the blank or roll under the EVA. For a reelseat, you are absolutely correct. EVA is a different beast though.

Kevin ...... I agree rod bond would be the best ....... not as runny as D2T and not as thick as PC7 .........

that's right .... you like PC7 for the reelseats ..... my mistake ....

You are probably right with EVA because I've only used cork. I hot glue the mesh at a few different spots to keep it from moving otherwise I sometimes get the mesh moving any time my grip needed a little spacing.

[FLATLINER]

Another question - what's the best way to take pictures of the thread work without the picture getting washed out by flash? I tried without the flash and it just doesn't get detailed enough. I've been practicing wrapping underwraps with inlays and wrapping guides on a scrap blank...

Kevin - I'm in NC.



Sean

Sean,
The best pictures are taken with a high Megapixal digital camera and with NO flash. High indirect ambient light is the only way to do it.

Your grip should be fine since its only light spinning. Once you move the grip down the blank, do not squeeze the grip. You want as much glue as possible in the eva. Your grip will be tight enough at the bottom, but the top of that grip will be loose and you need to keep that full of epoxy.

Good luck with it.

[rhahn427]

Kevin ....... I'm confused ...... I think the St Croix HKS-2 is a cork handle ......... is there some other EVA on the rod ....... I'm probably not looking at it right ......