wreak anchor

[mezz]

looking to do some sea bass fishing out on the triangle wreaks this spring/summer and have never used a wreak anchor. When I anchor using my standard danforth I usually let out additional anchor line out once it hits the bottom (scope). The amount I let out usually depends on the sea state. When using a wreak anchor, do I apply this same concept? or do I keep it tight once it grabs bottom. It just seems that if I was to keep it tight it may pull my bow into a passing swel, which is not a good thing or are the wreak anchor's hooks made to bend out if too much pressure is applied with passing swells.

Couple more questions.....is chain used with the wreak anchor and what size wreak anchor should I consider (I have a 24ft cuddy cabin...KeyWest with 250hp). One more.......when fishing the Triangles for sea bass should I drift like most head boats or anchor once I find a steady bite?

Thanks for any info

[captdavdavis01]

On the anchor, I use a break away. I have a anchor with a loop under the hooks and on the top of the shank. I shackle my chain to the BOTTOM of the anchor and use four 8" zipties to hold the chain t the shaft. At the top loop I take another 8 zipties an secure the top ring to the chain. I use 6-8 ft of chain here.

If Im seabassing, I drift it first. This allows me to see if its worth while and to make note of the current via the plotter. If its worth fishing, I run up current 100 - 130ft, (1 ft ahead for very ft of depth, again use your plotter) stop, and back up just to get sternway and drop the anchor. Lower it,(atleast until you get the chain down 15-20 ft) dont throw it, throwing it can make the anchor spin and wrap the tines up in the chain. ( I use very heavy chain)

Once it hooks the wreck, I come ahead on the line and try to get it pretty verticle, a little angle is ok. Watch your bottom machine to make sure your over structure, it may take a drop of two to get it right.

You can use a danforth/fluked anchor with a break away as a wreck anchor, but you run the risk of not getting it back or bending the hell out of the flukes.

When its time to move on, just go easy ahead and you will feel it pop out. Either the ties will break, the tines will straighten or the wreck will give. Once its free, go to neutral and recover your anchor.

I use a 1/2" Rebar anchor on my 25 Dusky. About 90% of the time the zip ties pop before the tines straighten out, Ive had very few premature releases on part of the zipties. If it happens, add 2 more zip ties (get a 100 ct. pack at the Lowes). It will take a few tries before you get your anchor dialed in.

I dont think the swell would beable to pull your bow under before the tines rolled out or the ties popped.

[mezz]

Wow ....thanks for the details...............very helpful