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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    57

    Default Noobie here, intro and motor question

    Morning guys!

    Just bought a 1998 Sylvan Pro Select 16' side console w/ a 2005 50 hp Johnson 2 Stroke.
    I'm from Bel Air, MD, fish/crab Bush River/Upper Bay and the flats.

    Now I went out in Bush River Saturday to test out the trolling motor and just get used to the boat. Now, getting up on plane is a breeze, when coming down from WOT to IDLE the motor shuts off. I'm replacing the fuel filter this week and will try an run all the gas out incase there is some water or old gas in there. Any other thoughts?


    Chadd.

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    4,399

    Default

    welcome to TF, Chadd.
    not real familiar with that motor but sounds like some preventive maintenance would certainly be a good place to start on a used rig.
    you came to the right place for answers.

    good luck with the new rig!
    Mark

    170CC Proline
    MSSA (NW Chapter)
    UBBB

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    255

    Default

    If your carbs haven't been cleaned in a while, there's a good place to start. They will have varnish and gunk around the idle jets which will cause your problem. Also, if you have a fuel recovery system, ( I don't know if that engine has one), the lines and orifices in the system need to be cleaned out with gum out.

    If you don't know when the last time your water pump and fuel diaphram were changed, you should change them out. It may keep you from getting towed in from mid bay.

    Regards,

    John
    John


    1985 Bayliner-still fishing

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    1,071

    Default

    Ditto to what John said. Also make sure vent to fuel tank is open if you're running off a 6 gal portable tank. A clogged fuel filter or pulling against a vacuum could cause the engine to stall out. When running full throttle the fuel pump may generate enough suction to pull some gas to the engine, but fuel can be sucked back to the tank or partial vacuum in the fuel line when the rpms are dropped off and the engine dies.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    57

    Default

    Thanks for the responses. With the motor only having 40 hours on it I didn't think the water pump would need replacing yet. My gas tank is a 30 Gal built in tank, I will have to check for a vent.

    I am replacing the fuel filter tonight so standby for results!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    309

    Default

    Chadd,

    First, welcome to the board. Good group of guys, willing to help.

    Agree with the carb comments. If you have a built in tank it is already vented (that little round thing on the side of the hull where the gas pours out when you overfill it). On the water pump (impeller) a 7 year old engine that has sat some (only 50 hours) will probably have dried out the impeller. I would replace it as a matter of course and probably change it out every two or three years. An impeller is one of those things that can put you on the wrong end of a tow rope.

    Good luck,

    Aches n Pains
    Aches n Pains
    Fish out of Solomons
    21' Sea Hunt Walkaround

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    57

    Default

    Hmm, never really thought of it that way but thats a very good point. I will order a pump replacement kit here in the next few days. On a good note, I had a strong/steady stream of water last time I was out.

    Is there any sort of "Carb Cleaner" fuel additive thats good to use? I'm decent with motors (On cars), I don't really want to pull this motor apart just to spray some carb cleaner in there. Or filling up with 93 octane to help burn some of the junk off.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    53

    Default

    Having run Johnson and Evinrude 2 strokes for a long time, I would suggest that you do the following just to eliminate many of the more frequent issues. Replace water fuel seperator or install one if there isn't one already. Cleaning the carbs is very important, particularly if you have crappy E10 fuel (ethanol). I would suggest getting a can of OMC Engine Tuner and running the whole can through the motor. Just warm it to operating temp, spray the whole can into the carbs while running it at mid range rpms and then once the can is empty turn it down to idle until it chokes out. Let it sit for 20-30 minutes and then fire it up again. It will be smokey and stink at first, but your engine will love you for it. I also like running Yamaha Ring Saver (fuel addative) in my tank. Gas with Ethanol does not keep well and the Ring Saver seems to help with that. Water pump should definately be replaced as should the gear case oil. New plugs are not a bad idea either considering they are not that expensive. I would also encourage you to run Johnson, Quicksilver (Mercury), or Yamaha oil instead of some no name brand. Oil is the lifeblood of your engine so never skimp. Anyway, good luck to you and congrats on the new rig. One last suggestion . . . buy the service manual for your motor. Sealock makes great ones as does OMC. You will be surprised at how much of this stuff is simple to complete if you can read directions and follow along with the pictures. Money well spent.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    57

    Default

    Thank you very much sir.

    Man, this is a great community. Its awesome when a community is alive and willing to help out a noob. Thanks again, everyone!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,056

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cpcullum View Post
    Thank you very much sir.

    Man, this is a great community. Its awesome when a community is alive and willing to help out a noob. Thanks again, everyone!
    Ok, so it dies when you come off plane, but does it idle ok otherwise?
    Water in a carbuerator bowl could cause the problem, but more than likely that would result in very poor performance at plane. Usually, with water in the carb bowl you can run at idle, but when you increase the demand for fuel you will start sucking up water.So l;ets rule that one out for now.In either carbuerator since water in one carbuerator bowl shouldn't allow it to die, just run bad.
    If you have water in a more central location- like a fuel water sepearator or the fule tank,the change in the boats attitude could cause the problem.
    If your fuel pump is weak it will pump better at higher speed, but likely would cause rough idling= lets rule that out for now too.
    Could be a timing problem,only way to know that is change the power pack.
    Does the fuel bulb stay hard when you are running at different speeds ?
    And lastly---
    I have never been an advocate of changing the water pump for the sake of feeling more secure. Now,sitting idle for a few years might be an issue,but when ever I have had a pump go bad I always got ample warning.Usually when the impeller blades start to dry up and curl they will pump fine at low speed(enough to get you home),but at high speed they lay down because they are no longer as stiff as when new.
    I've always had OMC 2 strokes till five years ago(new Honda-you can never go back after that !)and I ran a 40 for ten years before it needed a pump, and I used that motor every year, season in and season out.I'm from the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it school" this has been my experience anyway. Maybe just lucky !

    let us know what you find with the Motor problem.
    Ps, if you're anyware near Northern Del. I can recommend a very good OMC mechannic.
    Wen
    Socialism works until the other guy stops paying.

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