View Full Version : penn squidder 140/145/146 rebuild



alantani
12-16-2007, 06:32 PM
here's another old standard from penn. the squidders continue to remain popular among long distance surf casters. they also performs well for many inshore light tackle applications. a single screw also allows you to remove the side plate and easily clean the reel or change spools.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_001.jpg

first, go to pennparts.com for the schematics and parts lists. for this particular rebuild post, i will be working off the 145 schematic.

140L - http://store.scottsbt.com/category1.aspx?SID=8&Category_ID=199&ClearCache=1

140L-LH - http://store.scottsbt.com/category1.aspx?SID=8&Category_ID=200&ClearCache=1

145 - http://store.scottsbt.com/category1.aspx?SID=8&Category_ID=201&ClearCache=1

146 - http://store.scottsbt.com/category1.aspx?SID=8&Category_ID=202&ClearCache=1

what we're going to do with this reel is to hotrod it a little, with a jigmaster power handle (#24-56), a narrow frame and spool conversion kit http://store.scottsbt.com/KIT140-146CK-Conversion-Kit-140-to-146---Limit-One-P13263C202.aspx, a new set of three #6-60 drag washers inside the main gear, a new #6-113 drag washer under the main gear, and a stainless steel gear sleeve that was made up custom for me. please note that this is not the same #98-60AT or #98-505AT stainless steel gear sleeve carried by pennparts.com. this was a limited run made by pete kolekar at my request. there are only a few left.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_002.jpg

one of the nice features of this reel and the jigmaster is the take apart thumb screw (key #40). turn the screw counterclockwise, lift this spring-loaded screw a little, then turn the entire left side plate counterclockwise and remove the right side plate assembly.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_003.jpg

we're now down to three pieces, the frame assembly, spool and right side plate assembly.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_004.jpg

we'll start by removing the left side plate screws (key #'s 32 and 39).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_005.jpg

note that the post screws (key #39) are longer than the stand screws (key #32).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_006.jpg

grease the screw holes of the new frame posts (key #37) and new stand (key #30) and install them.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_007.jpg

remove the left side bearing (key #40).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_009.jpg

pull out the bearing shield (no key #).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_010.jpg

the old bearing is toast.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_011.jpg

a new bearing is a 0.125 x 0.5 x 0.172 in stainless steel. it's going in degreased, lubed with corrosion x and left open.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_012.jpg

grab that ratty old toothbrush and brush on a light coat of grease.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_013.jpg

a little on the spool (key #29L) as well.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_014.jpg

there. much nicer!

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_015.jpg

alantani
12-16-2007, 06:33 PM
remove the right post (key #38) and stand (key #31) screws. note that they are also of different lengths.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_016.jpg

grease the screw holes and re-install the right side ring (key #2).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_017.jpg

throw the spool in and set them both aside.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_018.jpg

now for the right side plate assembly. remove the handle lock screw (key #23a).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_019.jpg

remove the handle screw (key #23).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_020.jpg

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_021.jpg

remove the handle (key #24) and note the damage to the top of the soft brass gear sleeve (key #98).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_022.jpg

remove the star (key #10).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_023.jpg

remove the spacing sleeve (key #9).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_024.jpg

back out the four bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_025.jpg

the bridge assembly will drop straight out. note that the dog and dog spring came with it.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_026.jpg

this dog is a little different from the others. it has a hole drilled into it and the spring rests inside making the installion much easier.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_027.jpg

here's the bridge (key #3) with the main gear (key #5), drag washers (key #'s 4, 6 and 7) and tension spring.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_028.jpg

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_029.jpg

to remove the brass gear sleeve (key #98), push (or punch) out the retaining pin.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_030.jpg

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_031.jpg

install the new stainless steel gear sleeve and the retaining pin. sometimes the pin sticks out a little. just file it flat and the main gear should be able to slide over with no trouble.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_032.jpg

the first washer that goes under the main gear is a #6-113. a generous coat of cal's drag grease works well here.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_034.jpg

rebuild the gear stack with a generous coat of drag grease on all of the drag washers. don't worry about the excess. it will simply squeeze out the sides. note that we will also be discarding the tension spring (key #8). the extra thickness of the #6-113 drag washer underneath the main gear means that there is no room for the tension spring.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_035.jpg

now for the right side plate bearing.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_036.jpg

our handy dandy bearing pulling tool will remove the bearing cover.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_037.jpg

it will also remove the bearing (key #26).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_038.jpg

this bearing was rusted as well. this new bearing is also a 0.125 x 0.5 x 0.172.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_039.jpg

let's line everything up.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_040.jpg

alantani
12-16-2007, 06:34 PM
first, install the bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17). note that the screws that are threaded just at the tip go on top.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_041.jpg

your left index and middle finger cover the bridge screws. the right side plate (key #1) is held between your left thumb and ring finger.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_042.jpg

now you can flip the side plate over with no risk of having the screws fall out.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_043.jpg

install the clutch springs (key #18).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_044.jpg

install the pinion yoke (key #12) and pinion gear (key #13) as a unit.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_045.jpg

install the eccentric jack (key #11).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_046.jpg

install the bridge/main gear assembly, turned 90 degrees counterclockwise from it's final position.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_047.jpg

install the dog (key #15) and dog spring (key #14) as a unit. lay it down over the bridge screw and note that the dog spring sticks out too far.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_048.jpg

press down on the bridge assembly with your left thumb. use the blade of a small flat screwdriver to push the dog spring down into it's final position.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_049.jpg

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_050.jpg

rotate the bridge assembly 90 degrees clockwise and push it down into it's final position.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_051.jpg

with a right hand assist, flip the right side plate assembly over.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_052.jpg

start each bridge screw half way, then cinch down each screw until they are snug.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_053.jpg

verify that the freespool lever (key #21) works properly.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_054.jpg

verify that the secondary freespool lever (key #21C) functions properly. this lever allow the handle to turn backwards by disengaging the dog.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_055.jpg

install the spacing sleeve (key #9).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_056.jpg

install the star (key #10).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_057.jpg

install the upgraded handle (key #24). add a light coat of grease.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_058.jpg

install the handle screw (key #23).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_059.jpg

install the handle lock screw (key #23A).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_060.jpg

press the right side plate assembly down into the right side ring (key #2) until it seats, turn the right side plate assembly clockwise until the take apart thumb screw (key #41) lines up with the threaded screw hole, and turn the thumb screw down until it seats.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_061.jpg

congratulations! you're done!

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/squidder_062.jpg

now, for a couple of comments. honestly, there is no way that this upgrade was anywhere near worth the time and expense that was required. but this was never about money, was it. i know one thing for sure. the new owner was a very proud and happy man. personally, i much prefer the balance that the narrowed frame offers. i like my reels "boxed out," having a spool that is as wide as it is tall. with greased carbon fiber drag washers, this reel will deliver a maximum of 12-15 pounds of drag at the top of the spool. the stock brass gear sleeve will start to round off at drag settings in excess of 8 pounds. the stainless steel gear sleeve will easily hold up under 15 pounds of drag. that means that this stainless steel gear sleeve is a worthwhile upgrade ONLY if you are going to fish a 10 pound drag setting with, say, straight 30# mono. that works out well, because the gap between the spool and side plate rings can be so large that the reel will eat 25 pound mono or less. it will also obviously eat spectra. this is an important point. this is not a spectra ready, or spectra worthy, reel.

maintenance of this reel is very simple. the screw holes and drag washers will be good forever. it would be a simple matter to strip off all the line, take the reel apart, flush it out with a full blast of water from a hose, blow out the bearings with compressed air, lube the bearings with more corrosion x, reassemble the reel, spool it up with more 30# mono, reset the drag and set it aside for the next fishing trip. if the bearings foul, you now know how to replace them. other than a fresh water rinse and blow dry, only the bearings are at risk for failure. if you are distance casting, you know that bearing maintenance is critical.

Fishman
01-06-2010, 05:27 PM
Thanks Alan