this rebuild post has been long overdue. the penn 3 series graphite reels have been workhorses since the day they were introduced. there are 5 reel sizes and 9 models, including the 310gti, 320gti, 321gti, 320gt2, 320ld, 330gti, 330ld, 340gti and 345gti.
we will start with the largest selling single model reel in the world, the penn 320 gti.
it is one of the easiest reels to work on when it comes to routine bearing service. removing the right side plate assembly (key #1) requires only the removal of four right side plate screws (key #32).
the reel breaks down to the frame assembly (key #183), the spool (key #29L), and right side plate assembly (key #1).
this gives you easy access to left side plate bearing (key #40). it's an abec 5 and the size is 4x11x4 if you ever need to replace it.
you also have easy access to the right spool bearing (no key #) in the bridge assembly (key #3).
one of the problem i see with this reel is corrosion. in the worst cases, the spool shaft is totally rusted to the pinion gear (key #13). good thing we got to this one when we did.
lube the right side plate bearing (key #40).
lube the worm gear (key #42) in the levelwind assembly.
reinstall the spool (key #29L) into the frame (key #183) and set both aside.
now for the right side plate assembly. remove the handle lock screw (key #23A).
remove the handle nut (key #23).
remove the handle assembly (key #24).
remove the tension spring (key #8) and the drag star (key #10). you may save the tension spring to reinstall later, but i typically discard these because they promote corrosion.
push the eccentric lever (key #21) forward and in gear. back out each of the four bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17).
the bridge assembly (key #3) should fall out easily, so catch it before it does. leave the right side plate (key #1) in the "up" position so that the bridge screws do not fall out.
a quick inspection of the main gear (key #5) reveals a little surface corrosion. this will have to be cleaned out or you may have a few "bumps" when you crank the handle.
here is an exploded view of the bridge assembly (key #3) and drag stack.
now we're going to rebuild the drag stack. we will start by replacing the fiber washer (key #4), found underneath the main gear, with a penn ht-100 carbon fiber washer (part #6-875).
slap a thick coat of cal's drag grease on the drag washer.
slide the washer down over the gear sleeve of the bridge (key #3), then install the main gear (key #5).
grease each drag washer (key #6) in turn and install them in order, alternating with the keyed and slotted metal washers (key #7). don't worry about the excess grease, it will simply squeeze out the sides.
one thing to make sure of is that the little tab of the keyed metal washer seats properly in the groove of the main gear. sometimes it rises up and rotates a little and you functionally have only a single drag washer instead of 5.
we will start with the largest selling single model reel in the world, the penn 320 gti.
it is one of the easiest reels to work on when it comes to routine bearing service. removing the right side plate assembly (key #1) requires only the removal of four right side plate screws (key #32).
the reel breaks down to the frame assembly (key #183), the spool (key #29L), and right side plate assembly (key #1).
this gives you easy access to left side plate bearing (key #40). it's an abec 5 and the size is 4x11x4 if you ever need to replace it.
you also have easy access to the right spool bearing (no key #) in the bridge assembly (key #3).
one of the problem i see with this reel is corrosion. in the worst cases, the spool shaft is totally rusted to the pinion gear (key #13). good thing we got to this one when we did.
lube the right side plate bearing (key #40).
lube the worm gear (key #42) in the levelwind assembly.
reinstall the spool (key #29L) into the frame (key #183) and set both aside.
now for the right side plate assembly. remove the handle lock screw (key #23A).
remove the handle nut (key #23).
remove the handle assembly (key #24).
remove the tension spring (key #8) and the drag star (key #10). you may save the tension spring to reinstall later, but i typically discard these because they promote corrosion.
push the eccentric lever (key #21) forward and in gear. back out each of the four bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17).
the bridge assembly (key #3) should fall out easily, so catch it before it does. leave the right side plate (key #1) in the "up" position so that the bridge screws do not fall out.
a quick inspection of the main gear (key #5) reveals a little surface corrosion. this will have to be cleaned out or you may have a few "bumps" when you crank the handle.
here is an exploded view of the bridge assembly (key #3) and drag stack.
now we're going to rebuild the drag stack. we will start by replacing the fiber washer (key #4), found underneath the main gear, with a penn ht-100 carbon fiber washer (part #6-875).
slap a thick coat of cal's drag grease on the drag washer.
slide the washer down over the gear sleeve of the bridge (key #3), then install the main gear (key #5).
grease each drag washer (key #6) in turn and install them in order, alternating with the keyed and slotted metal washers (key #7). don't worry about the excess grease, it will simply squeeze out the sides.
one thing to make sure of is that the little tab of the keyed metal washer seats properly in the groove of the main gear. sometimes it rises up and rotates a little and you functionally have only a single drag washer instead of 5.