View Full Version : penn 330 gti rebuild

05-06-2008, 01:26 AM
the penn 330 gti is simply the bigger brother of the 320 gti with the same spool as the 3/0 sized penn 112h. it has all the same advantages, and disadvantages, of the penn 320 gti. the only real difference is the larger frame and spool.

to remove the right side plate assembly (key #1), remove the right side plate screws (key #32).

the reel breaks down into three pieces, the frame assembly (key #183), the spool (key #29L) and the right side plate assembly (key #1).

lube the left side plate bearing (key #40).

lube the worm (key #42) in the levelwind assembly.

here's a look at the spool (key #29L). it is a 112h spool on a different spool shaft.

put the spool (key #29L) back in the frame assembly (key #183) and set it aside.

now for the right side plate assembly (key #1). remove the handle lock screw (key #23A).

remove the handle assembly screw (key #23).

remove the handle assembly (key #24).

remove the star drag (key #10) and tension spring (key #8). i typically discard the tension spring at this point.

push the eccentric lever assembly (key #21) forward and into gear, then back out all four bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17) and leave them all in place.

the bridge assembly (key #3) will fall out easily, so catch it without turning the right side plate (key #1) upside down.

here is an exploded view of the bridge assembly (key #3) and main gear clustger (key #5).

we're going to switch out the fiber washer (key #4) for a drag washer (penn part #6-875).

grease the drag washer (part #6-875).

rebuild the drag stack, starting with the #6-875 washer underneath the main gear.

slap a thick coat of drag grease on all the other carbon fiber drag washers and rebuild the drag stack.

place your left and middle fingers over the bridge screws and lift up the right side plate.

now flip it over and everything should stay in place.

05-06-2008, 01:27 AM
install the bridge assembly (key #3) and rotate the bridge plate 90 degrees counterclockwise from it's final position.

install the dog spring (key #14) and dog (key #15).

rotate the bridge (key #3) 90 degrees clockwise until the bridge plate seats properly.

with a right hand assist, flip the right side plate (key #1) over.

set each bridge screw (key #'s 16 and 17) halfway, then snug them down until they seat properly.

check the function of the anti-reverse mechanism.

check the function of the eccentric lever assembly (key #21).

lube the spool shaft (key #29L).

lube the bearing (no key #) in the bridge (key #3).

install the right side plate assembly (key #1) and right side plate screws (key #32).

install the star drag (key #10) and turn it down until it clears the shoulders of the gear sleeve (key #98).

install the handle (key #24). note that a penn senator power handle (part #24-349H) may be substituted here as well.

install the handle assembly screw (key #23).

install the handle lock screw (key #23A).


written 5/5/08 at

Kevin Smith
05-10-2008, 11:01 AM
I have 6 of them and they are extremely reliable and have never been in for service other than lubrication. I was thinking about going thru them and your thread will make it easy.

Thanks for posting this!


night nurse
05-14-2008, 01:39 AM
WOW thanks for the information. Guess what I'll be up to?


27 sailfish
05-14-2008, 06:28 PM
Remind the owner of that reel that freshwater bath won't hurt the reel :D.

:clapping2::clapping2:- on the text/photos, I picked up two very good tips :thumbup:.Should make my next reel tear down go easy :yes:.

Thanks for taking all the time to post these step by step threads :clap:.

01-08-2009, 09:53 AM
Thanks for all the time and effort you put into your posts; they are gems on the web for all us reel servicing amateurs!

A problem a lot of people run into with their 330s (and other Penn level line models) are the level winds end up not working. I know some people give up on the reels (and even on Penn) when this happens, and others take out the level line setup. It leaves a not of folks saying "never again Penn".

What is the usual mechanical problem when this happens? Any tips for diagnosing and fixing this problem? Is it as simple as the pawl needs adjusting and eventually the worm gear or pawl get damaged? Do the worm bearings need any routine maintenance to help?

01-08-2009, 10:31 AM
I sent Alan my post by email, and he got back in minutes! He asked that I post his reply here, so:

" it's usually one thing, or another, or both. the first is the tiny pawl. it has to be able to slightly twist back and forth to follow the groves in the worm. if it gets gummed up, it will not track correctly and the harder stainless steel pawl usually ends up cutting into the softer chrome over brass worm. the second is that the line and the leveler get out of sync. under a
light load, it's no problem. under a heavy load, the pawl with shred the worm

the best way to make sure your leveler continues to work is to pull the pawl out when the reel is brand new, add a few drops of corrosion x and then spool it up. oh, and where ever you posted this, please feel free to cut and paste this in.