Same thing with the roller trailer that carries my 25 Parker.
Not interested in the long crank or power loading, so I dunk the trailer.
Once I'm hooked up and starting to pull up the ramp, if it looks like I'm loading crooked, I stop about 2/3 of the way out (so my stern is still floating a little) and just push/pull her to one side or the other.
Another BIG THING make sure your motor is straight. If u don't raise the motor all the way up and the steering is turned the boat will cock when u pull out.
Back in on the shallow side, crank until it’s not comfortable and then back the trailer down a little more.
Repeat if necessary.
Deep ramps are the worst for that. Even my 13’ Whaler is a pain when the back end floats crooked.
Usually as long as I get the bottom to hit the keel roller on my Wellcraft, the rest will settle on the bunks just fine but deep ramps I have to do what I said above.
There's many ways to do it . Personally, the method I like best is to build a board walk on the trailer with a 2x12 or other cat walk material if you have the room on your trailer frame You could use something for a walking staff to steady yourself to walk on it if you like. . I see lots of those but every trailer situation might not work for these. The trailer should be long enough to step onto the trailer and far enough out on it to retrieve the boat without stepping in the water, otherwise you will need hip boots . That might be the way for you to go if it will work on your trailer .The old wader trick works every time for me and I stil think they are easier and safer . I use them for my little 16 ft Starcraft . My 20 ft. center console is easy to drive on and climb out of onto the trailer tongue and hop off alone. still not as safe as wading into the water. I think for once or twice a year, that would be your best and easiest way to go, plus you could use the waders or hip boots for other things .
Last edited by Capt.Nick; 08-04-2020 at 06:25 AM.
Fishing can be anything you want it to be