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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My outboard engine is a 1995 112 Johnson SPL and it died last weekend. My limited knowledge with trouble shooting led me to the power pak. I finally found a delarship that take the engine to llok at. They have told me the stator is bad and power pak is bad but the worse part is that one cylinder is running 80 psig and the others running normal. They are telling me about 600.oo for powerpak and stator replacement but overhaul of power end "could" get way up there $4,000.00. And because of the the model of the engine are telling me to carefully weigh decisions about what to do. I'm getting about $11,000.oo (includes everything needed and taxes also) to power up to 115 HP 4 stroke Yamaha and about $8,400.00 for 90 HP 2 cycle (everything included. 1. Take a chance on the overhaul 2. purchase the 115 HP 4 stroke, 3. Purchase the 90 HP. the boat is a 18 ft center console and I think the 90 would be OK but marginal and of courswe the 115 HP would power the boat better. NEED SOME ADVICE help make informed decison. I've checked with other places and I think these prices above are in line with other dealers?????
 

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Take the engine somewhere else. I'm assuming that the engine ran fine until died, but due to unrelated components per the dealer you've now got multiple problems. Before moving the engine somewhere else do your own compression check. Cylinder pressure shouldn't vary more than 10% between cylinders, but 15% will still get you a few seasons although some quirks may arise. If it ran fine before it died I suspect the problem is really only electrical. You didn't elaborate on what was going on when it died. From the prices you stated it sounds like they're labor charge is the same as the parts they want to replace. Did you check the switchbox per a manual? I would question the validity of everything they said. Checking the stator should be simple even with a cheap meter. I run Merc's but a lot of times stator failures due to bad wire insulation which is usually hidden under sleeving that protects the wires. Usually the stator is good but the wires need to be repaired to avoid shorting....which can wipe out the switchbox.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Bob H., Thanks for the reply. The more I get into this the more I think this place is just trying to sell me an engine (rip me off). I can hear him (service manager) telling me that you don't have spark. I was pretty sure I knew that when I brought it in. He didn't tell me what tests and measurements he made to determine this but I guess I'm a very trusting person. But he concentrated on the low compression and I also remember him saying most likely power pak but could be stator. These can be tested for as I'm finding out. When I said "died" I mean after running full throttle for 12 miles and then idling for 15 minutes I moved and shut off engine like I normally do. It was somewhat difficult to start and I thought I had flooded the engine. It did finally start and I ran a mile or so then started drfiting with engine at smooth idle. Figure I'd leave it running and not take a chance. But at smooth idle it stopped running and would not start. Would turn over but no start, no pop. I think I'm going to bring it home and replace power pak and inspect wires and stator. I have a friend that knows a bit about OMC so I figure he'll help. Guess you have to jump the fly wheel to get to stator????. Something else was fishy also. I called at least 6 service places in this area and no one would even take the work as they were back logged. This dealership who's been here a long time said bring it in and they called me at about 10:00 Monday morning (I dropped it off Saturday). I replaced the fuel pump earlier this spring and know the one I removed was bad (check valve ripped and full of tears/holes). Engine ran fine 3 times out with new fuel pump. I think I'll probably get the electrical fixed by myself and with a bit of help here and there and hope for the best on the cylinder (assuming the compression is what he said it was). I can test compression. If you or anyone else has anything to add I'd appreciate it but your first post got me thinking. Thanks
 

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Start with the basics. Try to start the engine on muffs, then pull plugs and see if they're wet. If not, concentrate on fuel system. If wet, pull a plug and check for spark. If you have fuel and spark check the timing. No fire but have fuel, get a manual and check the coils and stator. A cheap Radio Shack meter work. I don't know what it takes to check an OMC switchbox or whatever OMC calls their ignition system. The stator should be able to checked without removing the flywheel at this time by testing the wires going to ignition box. Also look for any wires that have bad insulation - they could be grounding the ignition if there's no spark. Unfortunately they can also wipe out a stator or ignition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got the boat/engine back from the dealer and started doing some of the things Bob H suggested. With the help of some others (and certainly not conclusively) we zeroed in on the Power Pak. Plugs do get wet but no spark. The ignition ground functions properly ie; key off yellow/black has path to ground, key on no path to ground. Cleaned all connections can't find any frayed or disturbed wires. Replaced the power pak with NEW. I measure resistance of the two pins from the stator near as I can tell I get open across pins and open from pin to ground. The engine exhibits the same characteristics. Turns over but does not start. Plugs getting wet. Not too thrilled with results, thought engine was going to fire right up????????. The power pak feeds four individual coils and I think the engine would at least spit and sputter even if a couple of them were bad, but what's the chance that all four are bad, I think low. Guess I've got to try to find a manual or something and start looking at the stator. From what I could see (not measure) everything seemed intact.
 

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I may be mistaken for that engine but you shouldn't expect to get an open across the terminals. The wires are going through coils and the manual should tell you the specific resistance in ohms. If you're reading an open the stator may be shot or the wiring is shorted. Before you spend the money get a manual. Also clean all engine ground connections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have done what I can do. Measure resistance of each of the four coils each was all around 569 ohms. Been told about a fellow who works engines out of his garage and is very reliable, and works at Norfolk Naval Shipyard just as I do. He comes highly recommended. So, I'm bringing the boat over to him. He'll check everything and let me know what's what overall. I checked compression of each of the four cylinders and can't believe the results. Must be something not right. Three of the four read 50 psig and the last indicates zero. I gage I used was a lock-in and I cranked engine over several times with all plugs removed. For one cylinder I tried again with plugs installed same result 50 psig. This can't be right??????
 

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Call Steve @ florida boat sales. 410-255-4365 and give him your engine info. P/P aren't hard to replace. You take the old one off and 1 wire at a time switch them to the new one, If I remember correctly they run around 100-200 bucks. And what is normal... does it have low compression head gaskets, if so 80 psi is normal. The term normal is very broad espescially talking about compression. You generally look for all cyl. to be within 10% of each other.
 

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Does your Boat have a safety switch lanyard.Make sure this is operating properly.ALSO,You could have a bad Ignition switch.Had this happen on my 1995 175 Johnson.Don't remember the wire to disconnect on the Engine to check this.Maybe someone can chime in on this.Disconnected a wire on the Engine and it started right up!The switch can ground the kill wire in the ON position which will kill the spark.

As for the compession test ,did you have the throttle Wide open when you tested it??
 

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If all else fails, take your rig to Southeastern Marine in Richmond. If anyone can fix it they can. They are honest, reasonable and professional in their dealings. Call and talk to J.D. or Butch.

They can also sell you a new Yahama but they won't push one on you. If they say you need a new motor, you can rest assured that you do.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the help on the board. No I didn't have the throttle open when I did the compression test and that's probably the reason for low readings. Did get hooked up with a fellow that is local, reliable, honest and comes highly recommended. The stator was bad. He explained exactly what but I don't remember. Nevertheless he'll be putting in a new one and giving the engine a thorough check and talk to me about other stuff. He's not pushy with anything so far. I trust him and that's a good thing. I think he's going to recommend replacing thermostat and water pump. Engine is 10 years old and although it has been flushed every outing he still thinks it might be a good idea. Again not pushing it just recomending it. Seems like a good thing to do?????
 

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Water pumps should be replaced every 200 hours or so in primarily offshore duty. In bays and rivers with water born silt, more frequently. Thermostats (Vernatherm elements) should be changed every few years.
 

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i just got done looking at a 1997 four winns with a 1996 johnson 112spl. I here good and average remarks on this motor but I dont really hear any negative remarks. Now I did a compression test on it and i had 120,120,115,and 105. That 105 worries me but I could probably get away with decarbonizing spray in that cylinder right. What do you think I should do. And is that motor a respectable motor.
 
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