[freeflow_23]

Edit: Subject should read "DIY or not" (my bad)

I've slowly been rerigging my motorless boat preparing to have a motor put on. Everything is installed but the engine controls and the motor and the holes are leftover from the previous motor. Just how hard is it to install a 40HP remote outboard and hook up the controls? I've suprisingly been able to do alot of the rigging myself so far and would hate to pay extra to have someone do something I can do myself. Anyone installed their own motor in the 30-50HP size range? Would like to hear your thoughts and suggestions.

Thanks,
Brian

 

[BYRD]

I did a 70hp Evinrude one time. As long as the existing holes match the motor mount it is no problem. Lining up the cables and getting them set/"tuned" can be frustrating. It should not be difficult. Go for it. The more you do yourself the more you learn.

 

[fixit]

Piece of cake, No problem at all........

 

[Bob H.]

No problem. Just make sure you seal the transom mounting holes.

 

[freeflow_23]

Thanks for the info.

I read on another forum that the warranty on a new motor would not be activated if it is not installed by a factory trained technician. Does anyone have any first-hand knowledge of this?

Also does anyone happen to know if the new Mercury 4-stroke has the same bolting pattern as an earlier ('88) Mercury 2-stroke? Could I be so lucky?

Thanks again.
Brian

 

[rj]

In some instances ,some manufacturers will not give warranty coverage unless the installation is "certified" by a factory tech..but you can install them yourself-just need to take it for certification-most bolt patterns are the same-each manufacturer may differ slightly in their requirements--best to check with the manufacturer for the straight answer

 

[Little J16]

Like Bob H. said, make sure to seal the mounting holes. I pulled a 200 merc of a " factory installed motor" and the holes were not sealed and water weeped out for 2 days.

 

[freeflow_23]

Someone suggested slightly over drilling the holes and then lining them with fiberglass then re-drilling them to the required size. They said this would completely seal the inside of the drilled holes. Does this sound like a good or bad idea? Even if I did do this I would still want to use a good silicone sealer.

 

[Sandtiger]

When mounting, also ensure that the anti-ventilation plate on the lower unit (some folks call it a cavitation plate) is where it should be in relation to the running bottom on the boat. If not, the prop will ventilate (allow air into the prop) and you will have a problem.

 

[POLECAT]

[q]Someone suggested slightly over drilling the holes and then lining them with fiberglass then re-drilling them to the required size. They said this would completely seal the inside of the drilled holes. Does this sound like a good or bad idea? Even if I did do this I would still want to use a good silicone sealer. [/q]

Sounds good in theory, but be VERY careful if you decide to do this.
Problems can be encountered by not drilling the finished holes dead center in the correct place for each bolt. Not only dead center, but also 100% perpendicular to the transom. Factory jigs are (should be) used for this purpose. Drilling the holes freehand after enlarging them and glassing them could invite trouble if not done properly. Especially if the holes are enlarged only "slightly" as was recommended. The smaller the diameter the holes are enlarged, the more accurate the redrilled holes must be in order not to drill off center and thru the side wall of the fiber glassed insert.

 

[freeflow_23]

Well, the motor is mounted and nearly completely rigged in half of a day. Definitely a DIY job! The old holes matched up perfectly. That was very nice.
Thanks for all the advice. themarinedoctor.com was a big help. Great tip there.
Feel real good about doing it myself and saved a little $$$ in the process.[grin]