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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I"m sure that many of you have some ideas and techniques for eeling that you would like to share. Here's a few of mine to start.:D

Go to buoy 18 and drift eels. Use med to med/heavy spinning reels w/ 30lb+ main line, 40-60lb three foot leaders. #6 or #7 octopus hooks. fish 5 lines. 2 with no weight way out from the boat 60 ft or more. fish 2 lines with 1/4oz of weight just inside of those far lines, but not too close so they don't tangle and one line with 2oz, let that one hit the bottom and crank up 4-5 turns of the handle. some use no drag upon the fish eating the eel, then they apply pressure. This last trip we started with no drag, and by the end of the day we had everything engaged with a light drag and the fish were all hooking themselves. Also, we had better hook sets in the corner of the mouths when we didn't let them just run with it, they didn't have time to swallow it too deep. give it a few hours, I don't think you could go wrong over there right now. good luck

one last thing, we rig our weighted lines "Carolina Style"
 

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i am fishing the same way- we have always fished pretty much with reels engaged and light drag settings. works real well with the big red ones and cobes as well. catchemup!
 

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and big CATFISH the same way !!
 

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Another technique

Another way if you don't want to anchor or drift is to crab along the pilings with the current pushing your rig back to the pilings. I use enough weight to bounce bottom with a 3 way rig but use about 15ft leader that lets the eel swim free and back and forth between the pilings. I also have another eel on the surface swimming back towards the piling the same way but that one with no weight tied straight with small 3 ft leader to main line. You can cover some ground this way and I usually work the high rise area this way.

The other common way that has worked at slack tide or barely moving tide is back up to pilings with no weight and drop it at the piling the eel swims straight down if the tide is moving at all get the boat in the ebb at the back of the piling and let her swim.

Hook up and then drift back away from the piling and fight the fish.

Good luck
 

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OK. I have one question, when drifting how do you hook your eels. I have tried eeling one time hooking them up two to four inches from the tail. I had several knock downs but no hookups. Very frustrating. It was a slow day but I felt like I was definately doing something wrong. Also I was hanging them under bobbers down about half way or so in the water column where I marked bait (deep water, 70' +).

Thanks,
MELMAN :confused:
 

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Here's what we've been doing:

We're fishing spinning gear with the reel engaged. Baitrunners or freespooled conventional reels with the clicker on resulted in lower hook-up ratios and a higher probability of gut hooked fish. A 6/0 hook on 80 lb leader is tied to a barrel swivel(the snap swivels seem to get tangled in the leader) w/1 oz egg sinker above the barrel. Above the sinker is a slip float that's set at differnt depths from 10-30 ft. depending on depth of the water that's fished. Above the float, be sure to put a bead to keep it from getting hung in the "bobber stopper". For a bobber stopper, I've been using rubber bands, as they can be easily moved to differnt depths and easily removed completely. In addition to the bobber rigs, we fish a couple rigs without the float and a 2 oz egg.

I hook the eel through the lips on these rigs. On a free-swimming rig with no weight, I hook'em through the tail. The only bad thing about tail hooking is that the fish will eat the bait head first and you have to let him "eat"... and increase the odds of gut-hooking the fish (see related threads/posts).

One problem I've experienced is the eel balling itself up on the hook and leader... any suggestions on how to keep this from happening???
 

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Al B,

I was told that if you crimp your hook to your line leaving a small loop so that the
hook will swing freely that you won't have this problem....

We fished the concrete ships area today without success....Didn't mark anything.

Did alot better at the bridge

Howard
 

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Howard - thanks for the suggestion. I'm not a big fan of crimping my hooks, but may give it a try. One thing that seemed to help is SLAPPING the eel on the gunnel, stunning him, before sending him to his demise.
 

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Any thoughts on using the motor to hold near the fish? We did some long drifts today and there were long vacant gaps between fishy screen paintings. Since the fish seemed to be browsing around near the surface, I didn't want to start the engine for fear of sending them down.

Thanks for the educational information!

James
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Any thoughts on using the motor to hold near the fish? We did some long drifts today and there were long vacant gaps between fishy screen paintings. Since the fish seemed to be browsing around near the surface, I didn't want to start the engine for fear of sending them down.

Thanks for the educational information!

James
I feel like the motor noise will send these fish runnin'. I even go as far as to be careful not to run up the same line I've been drifting, try to circle around, so when I drift, the fish aren't spooked. Seems to work/help.
 

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Yeah, no need to "hold yourself on the fishy screen marks". Some of our best bites were NOT over good marks.
 

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When I hit the "Rate this thread" button...

...it says that I've already voted .....but that's not true! This is an excellent thread and I would like to express my appreciation for your help ON and OFF the water.:)

Waiter.....make that a "5 Star" , please!
 

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Bait runner spinning reels (3500 & 4500) with 30 to 50 braid. Braid tied to 20 to 30 lb. flouro with an albright knot. Weighted lines use a small egg sinker above a swivel & about 3 ft of 20 to 30 flouro. Light wire hooks & lighter leaders will get more bites than the heavy leaders IMHO. Never used any bobbers? Sure see allot of them this year though so the tackle shops are enjoing that new twist on the old theme.:)
 
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