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Not sure if it would be ok or not I just would not with mine. What are you looking to find out? Without a load it may not tell you much. Better watch your RPM's close.
 

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More than likely, you'll over rev the engine w/o a load on it. Not good. As questioned earlier- why?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think your guys are right, just wanted to confirm my suspicion. End of season motor started balking at WOT, but ran fine for hole shot and medium cruising. Rebuilt fuel pump, changed all filters, confirmed air vent OK. Confrimed fuel not watered. Next step is probably replacing fuel hoses, and maybe switch off valve. I'm into using a mechanic from this point. Just wondered if he does the work on land is there a way of testing it, but doesn't sound like you could safely do so. since the hoses are original with 13 seasons, figure no waste to replace them anyway, and test when I splash it in April.
 

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Hippie Joe,

You should never run your O/B above idle with ear muffs. You will surely burn up your H2o pump and over heat the O/B. There is not enough flow through a standard hose to properly cool the O/B. The only way to safely do this is in a tank or in the water. Sure you can and people will argue they do it all the time... NOT worth the costs of damaged parts or inadvertently shortening the life of your investment!

Any Minute!!
 

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Hippie, is your fuel line grey? If so replace it. When I got my boat, with a 225 opti, it had the merc installed grey fuel line, e10 dissolved the inner lining of the fuel line, luckily my fuel filter stopped the fragments from going any further.
 

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I'm into using a mechanic from this point. Just wondered if he does the work on land is there a way of testing it, but doesn't sound like you could safely do so.
You use a tank and a test prop. Every good mechanic should have both.
 

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My test tank is an extra large rubbermaid bin for $10 from Home Depot. Works great! My Merc didn't care for ear muffs at idle even.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hippie, is your fuel line grey? If so replace it. When I got my boat, with a 225 opti, it had the merc installed grey fuel line, e10 dissolved the inner lining of the fuel line, luckily my fuel filter stopped the fragments from going any further.
black fuel line. But the mechanic suspects it, and it is 14 years old.
 

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Fuel lines are warranted by the manufacturers for 3 years with the recommendation to replace them after 5 years.

Far too many people blame E10 for fuel line problems when in fact the hose is long past it’s life expectancy and would have failed if you used e10 or not.

FWIW: The grey fuel ines are just krap and where krap before e-10 existed.
 

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I've done just about everything you shouldn't do with a boat/motor

don't run WOT on muffs
 

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There is no way your motor will handle WOT on muffs. First of all, there is no resistance on the prop and the RPM's will exceed the limit. Your garden hose will not supply enough water to effectively cool the motor and the water pump will burn up. There are some manufacturers that don't recommend using a muff and say you need to use a water tank. Some motors have a hose attachment to wash out sea water but the engine should not be run doing this..............Gary
 

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Just make sure you measure the length, width and height of the lower unit beforehand. It may be tricky to find a bin that's long enough.
 

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As had been said, you will easily over rev the engine without resistance and load on the propshaft. When Baltimore Chris Craft existed in brookland, Md., they had a hydraulic dynometer to load test engines at wot. The prop was removed and a hydralic pump was installed onto the propshaft. Also they had the ability and equipment to supply enough water to prevent engine overheating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
thx. everyone, even if I do the repairs on land, since my boat is on blocks, I will wait till I splash to test it.
 

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By all means start it and run it on the muffs but not at WOT. The problem likely wouldn't occur without a load anyway. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
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Question about a make shift test tank. I've tried a 30 gallon live well drum and placed that around the engine. I've ran it but once you put it in gear it pretty much blows all the water out. That's why test tanks have lids or a roof. A 30 gallon drum just wasn't enough for my engine. 50 might do with a lid but you might have to cut the lid to fit around the engine. Place the drum around the engine when tilted up and then tilt it down while moving the drum. Then fill it with water. Always have a hose near by to add more water all the while. Maybe you could use both. The muffs, the type that injects water from both sides, not just one, and a drum or test tank. Now that might work. <o:p></o:p>

Check fuel system, look for rust deposits or one mechanic referred to them on my engine as Salt deposits inside the carb or the "vapor seperator" on my fuel injected engine. It's the reservoir of fuel inside the engine after all the inline water separators and fuel filters. I had just the smallest amount of this orange like dust particles in there that were interfering with a float and pin of a fuel injected Honda 130. Once I cleaned them all out, I was good to go. My problem was hesitation under load. I had previously had a mechanic replace the low pressure fuel pump ($200 part) prior to that thinking that was the problem. Well, it wasn't. It was the dust or orange particles. No idea where they came from. But that fixed my problem for a year or so when I had to do it again. easy fix. 20 minutes of work maybe. No parts except an o ring or gasket on the vapor separator that I damaged putting the thing back together. <o:p></o:p>
 

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Thx, thats a great idea, I can't pull any water through the muffs I have on my Suz....
Funny you mention that. I have a 1996 Suzuki 2 stroke that will not pump water on a set of muffs. Took me a looooong time and many new parts to figure that out too.
 
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