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Just for kick's has anybody tried to fiberglass planer boards? I'm thinking of 1 inch marine grade foam glassed over. I'm not sure if they will be heavy enough to pull away from the boat. Bouncing and rolling in rough water is also a concern. Saw a post a while back where someone rhino coated there boards. Curious to know if that would hold up and make them last longer.
 

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I drenched my first set in West epoxy, then painted. They still got some water in them and cracked.

Now I just paint them with ordinary latex exterior house paint every couple of years.

No use building a $9,000.00 hammer like the Air Force, when a $2.00 one will do.

BTW, did you hear about the $20k mini-frig that some contractor provided to the Army in Iraq? It was on the news today. Hell, I could have bought a railcar full of them from a Small/Minority Business, shipped them to Baghdad at $1k a pop and still made money...and gotten credit for the Small/Minority Business requirements to boot. One wonders how they managed to add the other $19k. :(
 

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I tried several times to fiberglass the baords I am going to sell. At first I tried to paint them and the put resin over the paint but the resin did not set well on top of the paint I then tried to resin them and paint them, and it works but, the stuff is so sticky, messy, nasty and hard to work with it's not worth it. With the cost of the stuff and how long it takes, your 150 dollar baords go to about 300 bucks. Not worth it.

The ones I am painting now I spray with a paint gun and a compressor. I use latex exterior paint. In my opinion it is the only way to go.

I have a few sets still if you're intrested.
 

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Buoyancy is not your friend in this game. The amount of pull a board generates is directly proportional to the amount of “wing” you have below the surface.

The Great Laker's will tell you a board doesn't pull well until its water logged.
I’ve even seen a few designs where they drill holes in the bottom of the board and fill them with lead to get the boards down in the water.
 

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to much weight causes boards to dip under water which turns into disaster. my boards are made of cedar with a coat of polyurethene and a coat of paint , been using them since 99 with no problems even in a heavy blow
 

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If your looking for durability, just make them out of PVC board. When I built mine, the baord in a 1x10x18 cost about $80 It's already white in color and doesn't need painting. I did paint mine Day-Glow Orange and put flags on them.
 

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Buoyancy is not your friend in this game. The amount of pull a board generates is directly proportional to the amount of "wing" you have below the surface.

The Great Laker's will tell you a board doesn't pull well until its water logged.
I've even seen a few designs where they drill holes in the bottom of the board and fill them with lead to get the boards down in the water.
Depending on conditions, I may hang a 4 oz, 8 oz, or 12 oz trolling weight on the outboard end of the lower-rear all-rod to get the board down in the water and keep it from bouncing too much in the chop. Drilling holes and filling them with lead gives you a fixed solution. A variable solution is most often the best.

BTW, this is coming from a guy who has dust on his trolling gear from lack of use. I'm certainly not an expert at trolling.
 
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