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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Made headway today.

Fillets in corner of motor box show only first spread. It was cleaned up and I added another layer today before glassing. Will be ready for 2nd coat of epoxy tomorrow.

My bottom paint came in. Gray-white up to top of garboard and boat body will be bright red. Offwhite interior with some varnished areas. Many won't like the red but my grandsons will.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Build me one

Sure. I can't wait to start the next one. Really.
 

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lol ... its tempting to take your offer but wife wants me to get rid of my other toys first before i can get another.. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good. I have enough projects and when I finish this, I'll to start on a 32 ft. Mystic Sharpie and then a new house in St. Michaels. I don't plan to build the house, I'll be the general contractor and fight with the subs for a couple years... while I'm building my boat. Then I'll have all my Tidalfish crabbing buddies down for a house-warming with steamed crabs, grilled rockfish stuffed with crabmeat, crab cakes and chilled tubs full of ice and cold beer. Hope you can make it.
 

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Hey Jim, Gilson (sp) from World of Hardwoods says hi!

Went there today for the first time(very helpful and personable) and picked up some mahogany for laminating the stem. It just so happens that when I showed him the tracing of the stem than I did he knew exactly what boat it was for and said that he has had a couple people com in building the same boat. The original plan was to get a 4/4 board , rip it into 2" strips and re-saw it on the band saw, and then plane to 3/8", But he actually had extra 2" (actually 2 1/8") x 3/8" strips all ready milled so I got them and all I will need to do is cut them to length and laminate them and plan it to 2" All of the wood for the stem cost me about $20.00. Of course then I picked out about $200.00 of Paduk to build my wife that vanity that she wants Go figure. Based on that precedent, this boat will end up costing me $15,000.00 to build instead of $1,500.00.:eek:

If I get some things taken care of around the house tomorrow morning, I might build the stem jig and maybe laminate it up tomorrow.

Your boat is looking good! I would love to see it in person at some point during the build I you wouldn't mind. Keep at it!

-D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
World of Hardwoods

D - Ignore title, I meant Exotic Lumber. If you like wood, you'll love that place, right? Nice folks and great selection. I need to get back there soon to buy a piece of white oak for my outer keel. That worked out well, getting the strips for your stem. Most places will mill - plane, joint - the wood for you. Have plenty of clamps on-hand before you get ready to laminate the stem. You'll use them often during the build anyway and Harbor Freight in Laurel has the bext prices on those. Make your blocks that the wood rests up against taller than the stem wood laying sideways and don't forget to put plastic between everything your stem-wood touches in the jig, including the clamps. Brush acetone on all the strips; it greatly reduces oils in the darker woods like mahogany and let dry about 15 mins. before the epoxy is applied. I talked to West Systems and they aren't worried about the bond anytime you forget the acetone, claim it's just as good, so who knows. Try to keep it off your skin. I bought 100 pairs of nitril gloves, stronger than latex, for about $13. You'll want to keep a box handy. You know about the epoxy filler, right? First mix the 2 parts well for 2 minutes, coat with epoxy and then epoxy mixed with cotton filler. Same for every single joint on the boat. You probably know all this, just checking. Jim

ps - I'll have you over before I flip it over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Motor Box

I thought about something last night and decided to fiberglass the entire interior of the motor box. That will add strength and durabiity. West Systems Epoxy technicians will talk to you for hours and I recommend you call and talk to one early in the process. With this particular epoxy, they will tell you never to adjust the mixture. Always one pump of resin and one of hardener and use the slow hardener only. The pumps you can buy at West Marine for West Systems in a pack are different sizes so you get 5x as much resin as hardener per pump. I often use washed out dog food cans for my mixing cup. I saw the attached site this morning from a commercial wood-boat builder in Washington State and both links are interesting reads. I would love to develop the skill to build a boat of this quality. One more thing... there is one very experienced boat-builder on this board that has helped me a lot via b-mail.

WEST SYSTEM epoxy and our wood/epoxy boats

Why Order a Wooden Boat from NEXUS?
 

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Jim,

First I have bonded and finished mahogany, teak oak, juniper, fir, cured polyster resin based fiberglass, to west epoxy with out any issues with oils. I have also bonded polyester based gelcoat to West epoxy without any problems. You just have to use like 50 grit or 80 grit paper for your final sanding of the epoxy prior to applying the gelcoat.

That being said the Acetone is not a bad idea just MAKE SURE THAT IT DRIES throughly before you apply the epoxy. Also make sure that you avoid getting acetone on uncured epoxy as I have seen it really goof up spots on a boat. My practice for cleaning tools is to take the container of acetone and the tools outside in order to clean them and don't bring them anywhere near the uncured project.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Edges

Tom - That 10mm cloth really soaks up the epoxy but that should make it that much stronger. I was putting on a second coat today and still have cloth on the surface. Before I go any further, I'll double-up the edges as suggested. Rather than tape, assuming I can cut pieces of cloth into tape-size... right? Or I can buy tape locally, might be easier and would look better. Polecat suggested this as well and I realize it would have best to do that first. The Wooden Boat article builder doesn't use any tape and a lot of guys don't use fiberglass, just epoxy but I agree with both of you that it would have been better. I'm a little nervous about screwing up the looks on the chine edges by taping the outside at this point. Would I use epoxy-filler mix if I do it now.? There is an outer false stem that goes over the stem you see in the pic. Thanks guys. Jim
 

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Try to find a roll of 6 inch tape. If you try to cut the cloth into 6 inch strips you will be fighting loose threads when you try to apply it to the boat.

I would call around who ever carries the cloth will carry the tape. You can probably go through a 50 to 100 foot roll of tape on that project. Besides that it is really handy to have laying around.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Tape

Tom - West Marine has it. I climbed under the boat tonight and realized that you won't even really see those edges once I flip the boat right-side up and agree it's best to double them up. OK. I'll get some tape tomorrow night and run it all around the edges. You are talking about the 90 degree edge between the bottom and the garboard and all aroung the motor box... which equals 360 degrees around the entire bottom perimeter of the boat, right? 3 inches each way? I'm learning. I took a lot of time with the second coat of epoxy, brushed it, rolled it, brushed it over and over.....even - no runs. Thanks again. Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Visit

D - You said you would like to come over so please come and same goes for Tom, Polecat, others.. Bmail if you would like to come over one night this week and I'll give you directions. Jim
 

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I would also put an extra layer or three on the bow. What I end up doing is putting one layer centered. Then one layer that is 2 inches on one side and 4 on the other the next layer 4 and 2. This way you don't have a "large" seam where all of the layers end at the same place.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Bow

Tom - Sorry, I don't follow. Do you mean vertical, adjacent the stem? I could wrap another whole piece around the bow and exposed stem area shown, then take it back maybe 20 or 30 inches and blend it in. Does that make sense.? Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Tape and Bow

Tom - I was happy that I had only one seam, which is on the bottom and I sanded it yesterday with the R-O sander before adding more epoxy. Now I have almost no seams, and nothing showing... so I must admit, adding a lot tape has me worried about aesthetics. I would almost prefer to tape the edges and then wrap it all again... with a lighter cloth... but this adds weight. Or... I can add an extra layer of epoxy, 4 total before painting. Pls. bear with me. I don't mind learning in public if others benefit. - Jim
 

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OK so here is how I did it (on four different boats).

This is relating to a generic outside corner for instance the bow of the boat.

Fist the one extra layer. Cut the tape to length (i.e. run the tape the length of the corner not crosswise) in adavce. Coat the surface with a thin layer of epoxy and set the tape into place. Center the tape on the corner. Apply more epoxy with a foam roller until the tape is saturated but so that you can still see the weave of the cloth.

For multiple layers overlap the edges like I described above where you are 2 inches on one side with the first tape, 2 inches on the other side for the second layer, etc. maybe starting out centered if you are doing three layers. Coat put on the first layer of cloth saturate and roll it, put on the second layer of cloth saturate and roll it, etc. My everyday row boat has about 5 or 6 layers of 10 oz cloth on the bow and on the first few feet of the chines as they the most likely place to take a hit when you come ashore, bump into oyster bottom, etc. The length of the chines has three layers

Optioni 1. Let it set up sticky then apply another coat of unthickened epoxy to fill in the weave of the cloth.

Option 2 Let it set up overnight.



On either option. Sand down the hight spots (with a random orbit sander) and knock down the standing tall edge of the tape with a sander. My tool of perference for the edge is a 4 1/2 high speed grinder with a sanding disk but you have to be really careful attack it at a shallow angle, and have a really light touch. Most folks would probably use a random orbit sander or belt sander. I use the high speed disk because it means that I can knock it out in like 3 minutes for a 15 foot long seam. I do the edge then come back with the random orbit sander to get the rest of the high spots, etc.

Wipe the area down with acetone and let it dry thourghly. This gets rid of any amil blush that you left on the surface in the low spots.

Mix up some thickened epoxy. I use Colidia Silicate (sp). Now use a wide putty knife to fill in any low spots and make a smooth surface. Use either a 4 inch knife or maybe a 12 inch knife to make it really feathered. Sand-rinse-repeat. This is just like doing drywall. If you take your time you can make the surface pretty nice. Once you get it smooth do one last coat of epoxy to fill in the roughness of the filler sand lightly and paint.

When you are done you coat the outside with paint so the discoloration cause by the extra thickness of the layers of cloth will not matter. If you are going to finish with clear varnish don't do what I just said.

One last thing, especially regarding the outside of the hull. This is a boat, it is not going to be perfect. Get it smooth with little or no local dips and bumps and you will have a nice looking product. spend your time making the inside trim bright worh looks as good as you can.

You mentioned weight. Unless you are going to cartop the boat an extra 20 to 40 pounds is not going to hurt anything. I would rather have a boat like this sturdy than light. Make those kayaks and ultralight rowboats with minmal cloth. Everyday boats should be built to last and take an occasional beating.

One last thing. After the first or second season you will finds spots on the boat that have worn through the paint, etc. These are prime canidates for adding a small copper or brass plate, strips, etc. in order to protect it for the long run. West epoxy sticks really well to roughed brass or copper. Something about the pH of the epoxy eats through the oxide layer and you get a really good bond. A couple of ring nails just in case and your are set.

If you can help it NEVER let the glass get worn all of the way through at any of the high wear spots. If you do lay the boat up in a dry location for a few months prior to doing the repair work.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Suggestions

Tom. Copy. I'm heading down to Annapolis this evening to buy cloth and 9mm tape to make another complete wrap, first taping the edges I really appreciate all of the time and advice. Great stuff and I would rather get it right than finished quickly. I like the idea of brass strips, plates, etc. Will be thinking about where to place those. This boat will get hard use by active boys. Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
How Close?

D - I'm 15 minutes north of Severna Park and my mother lives in SP. I tried to bmail you but you are not set up to receive. One or more are possibly coming over this week so if we can synchronize, it would good to come on the same evening. Bmail me for the particulars and I'll reply tomorrow. When I returned home, my cable line had been cut so I'm at the County library and won't be able to reply until tomorrow morning from work. I called Comcast and they should get me back on-line tomorrow. I just returned from Chesapeake Lightcraft in Annapolis, picking up fiberglass cloth and tape.. cheaper than West Marine. Internet prices with shipping are much less than both, so shop around. - Jim -
 
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