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Discussion Starter #1
Im thinking about getting the Hobie Outbac sportfisherman and was hoping you guys could reccomend a fishfinder. I am new to yak fishing so was also wondering how you power it.
 

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I use gel cell hobby batteries. They are compact, and power my elecronics for hours without any problems. I got mine really cheap off eBay!

John "Toast" Oast
Williamsburg Kayak Fishing Association
http://wkfa.org/
 

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Hookin-up, I just put one in my P13, I got the Eagle 168 on sale at BPS for $69. It works great.
As far as power.. I used an old ryobi 12 v battery charger and all I do is plug in a battery from my drill.
Didn't have to buy anything.
 

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I'll go one further and figure out a way to mount the drill base so that I can just plug in a battery on top of my yak when I go out and unplug for charging when I get in. That would be smoking hot.
 

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All good ideas... How about mounting the transducer? I think Im gonna go with the Lowrance M68. It looks like a nice combo unit.

Also looking at the mounting kit from kayakfishingstuff.com looks like it has everything I need. Ill start with that power source (8AA's) and if I need more I can step up in the future.

Any other Misc things I need for the kay before I head out?

So far I have...
inflatable life vest
handheld radio
dry bags for camera, keys, etc
fish stringer
all my fishing gear


Also anyone crab from a kayak? I think with the pull traps that have open tops and just lay flat it would be pretty easy.
 

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To mount the transducer, use epoxy or marine Goop. Find a place out of the way on the inside of the hull, ad put down a blob of glue. Work the transducer into it well. Place something with weight on it till it dries.

Give it a good couple days to dry. The longer, the better. Just make sure there are no air pockets between the transducer and the hull.

John "Toast" Oast
Williamsburg Kayak Fishing Association
http://wkfa.org/
 

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Oh yeh, remember to leash everything to the boat. You don't want to lose anything, expecially your paddle.

John "Toast" Oast
Williamsburg Kayak Fishing Association
http://wkfa.org/
 

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You're going to want an anchor shuttle system, paddle leash, and, if going out at night, a light that sits up above your head so other boaters can see you.
Good luck. We're having a huge kayak tournament in Virginia Beach at the end of September. Join us!
 

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You may want to consider getting the non fisherman Outback model.
You will be paying $100 more for a cooler, scotty rod holder and limited color selection in the fisherman models.
Non fisherman models still come with flush rod mounts. I mounted a ram rod tube on my Hobie Sport and Hobie Adventure.
I prefer the ram rod tube over the scotty rod holder. I bought yellow kayaks for the high vis on the bay.
There is a Hobie dealership in Annapolis that carries both fisherman and non fisherman models and they can tell you the difference between models.
 

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I have the 68C and you'll need at least a 3amp hour 12v battery. I have a 1.3amp hour and it gives out after 4-5 hours. Remember, you are powering GPS, Transducer and temp. It takes a little power. I use clear epoxy to mount the transducer just about under my seat and inside my kayak. Anything with color like white in it will not allow you to see fish. Good luck, and bring a light when fishing at night.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Juke ... I almost bought that fishfinder mounting kit but if 8 AA's are not enough I wont. Can you give me an idea of how you rig the 12v battery to be waterproof and also what kind of 12v rechargable did you get? I do appreciate the help!

I went to take the Hobie's for a test run today at Backyard boats. The outback was nice but I am not heavy enough to make it real stable so I went with the Adventurer fisherman. Now I have to get the roof rack for the car and rig an anchor system for the garage.
 

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I wish I had pics of my adventure rigging, but I don't.

I got a Hummingbird 535. I mounted it to a ram mount on the left side (opposite of the scootty on the right) on a ram mount. I agree with Rod to not get the fisherman package - that pays for a crappy/cheap cart, a cooler that I never use, and a rod holder that is in the way, and an achor. I use the anchor sometimes but probably will need to upgrade as a claw does not hold bottom that well on soft bottoms.

For transducer install, I used a 3" PVC cutting mounted to the inside bottom of the kayak. I fill with water, plop the transducer in, and compression fit a block of styro on top to hold it in place.

I do not personally think that an achor is necessary for most parts of fishing the bay. That's personal preference, however... I like to keep moving around and looking... and I can hold in current or wind with light pedaling. I bought everything to rig my anchor, but have not done it yet - so many change my mind once I actually try it.

For the battery, I went with a 12v lead acid battery from Cabellas sold specifically for powering fishfinders. It fits perfectly (like it was made for it) in a Lock&Lock "tupperware" style box they sell at K-mart. These boxes have four snaps and an O-ring - and I have put a brick on it to hold it underwater in a bucket overnight - no water whatesoever got it. Not bad for a 3 dollar container. I also keep my keys, walet, camera, phone, etc in a second box.

To start, I would recommend rigging your kayak only with a crate with PVC rod holders wire-tied in. You'll want to avoid pemanent modifications for a few times out so you can get a feel for where you want things.

Josh
 

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Josh has some good ideas up above me here.

I have an otter box with my battery inside but as I said its too small so I plan to buy some type of little plastic box to set my battery in and secure the box with goop on the bottom of my yak inside, then use a velcro strap across the top of the plastic box and battery to keep it from coming out in rough conditions or unloading it from my truck. They have one of those Battery + places here so I'll check it out first. Then as for chargers they have one at Walmart thats a Schnieder or something like that and its electronic but made to charge car batteries and gel batteries. It works really good then when I travel I have this small one.


for only $14.00
and you can see it at :
http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-chargers/12-volt/0-4amps/UPG12.html
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the feedback guys. I bought teh cablela's battery Josh recommended and I think I will mount it with the scotty electronics mount.

Im going to get a crate and attach some rod holders. and some waterproof plano tackle boxes.

Next task is building a rack system in my garage since the hobies have to be upsidedown and be supported with 2x4's.
 

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Here are some plans for a good cheap setup for an overhead storage system.

http://www.paddle-fishing.com/rigging/overhead.htm

Below are some pics of my milk crate and rod holders. I use it to store my rods in the house. On the water I carry a small laundery basket in the back of my yak instead of the crate. I find it easier to throw/stack more stuff in the laundery basket then the milk crate. I don't have any rod holders on the basket since I usually only carry 2 rods on the water.


 

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Discussion Starter #18
That is what I wanted to do in the garage but the Hobie dealer said they cannot be hung by straps because they will sag. Something about whatever the yaks are made is soft and will conform to the straps. They said to make a rack store the yaks upsidedown on 2x4's or something. I have a design in my head I just hope it fits in the garage.
 

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I have the M68 also and use a SLA battery. I can't remember if its 4 or 7amp, but I think its 4. I usually use the battery for 3-4 trips before I recharge. I add the battery voltage to the GPS & Sonar overlay and recharge the battery when it gets to between 11.5 & 12V. I could probably run it longer (to about 11V) but don't see a need to.

If you've already ordered it, then this advice is too late. Make sure you get the model that is for freshwater/shallow water. The Deepwater model comes with a big 50/200kHz transducer that is very large and heavy. The non-deepwater model comes with a smaller 200kHz trans. I don't know why they did that, b/c the head unit only supports 200kHz anyway. I ended up buying a smaller shoot-thru-hull puck-style transducer at BPS for $50.

The puck-style transducer is about 2" in diameter and fits nicely inside a piece of 3" PVC thats been Gooped to the hull of my Manta Ray. I then put the transducer in the PVC and fill it with water, cover it and I'm good to go. I'll try to get some pictures of it and post it later.

It works well, except for the temp sensor which is reading the water temp of the water I put in the PVC. I would have thought this temp would equalize with the water outside the hull, but so far that doesn't seem to happen.

Oh, another word of caution. After I installed it and powered it up, everything worked fine in my backyard. When I got out on the water the first time, the temp sensor wasn't working. It was flashing constantly as if there were no signal. After about an hour of thinking about it, I checked the connector/receptacle where the transducer plugs into the head unit. One of the pins on the head unit was not seating in the transducer plug and had bent off to the side. Apparently the affected pin was responsible for temperature info only. Once i got home, I bent the pin back into place and opened up the hole on the plug with a bodkin. Then the plug seated properly and I haven't had a problem since.

Just be careful you plug the transducer in straight and it seats all the way. Apparently my plug didn't seat all the way b/c the pin was bent, but it was snug so I didn't notice.
 
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