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Gotten a few PM's about what type bottom rig I use. Have to admit - it is nothing special or fancy , in fact - very low tech.

I use 40 lb clear Ande mono - mainly because I always have a spool on the boat. I find 30 lb seems to tangle easily and 50 will work but tougher to pull knots down.

I use a very small barrel swivel - this makes a nice tie point for braided fishing line. From the swivel - I'll drop about 12 inches and tie a surgeons end loop knot. I work off spool and do not cut until last loop is tied.

It is easy to tie and works fine. A true dropper loop is better but slightly tougher to tie.

Google surgeon end loop for instruction.

After the top loop is tied - I drop about another 12 inches and tie another loop.

From this loop - I'll drop 4-6 inches when after Spot since I like bottom hook right on bottom. If after Perch - I'll drop 12 inches.

The last loop is made big enough so a bank sinker of 1 -3 ozs can easily be slipped through.



The loops for hooks make it easy to replace dull hooks - I like Eagle Claw or Bear Paw snelled hooks. Simply push snell loop onto rig loop and pass hook through rig loop and draw tight.

Nice thing with these rigs - no big deal if you snag and break one off. Not sure they work any better then the store bought wire arm type but they are easy to store.
 

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I was in West Marine yesterday. I try to avoid them as much as possible because everything costs so much in their stores; but, I needed a new wash down hose for the boat (I use it for livelinning), and I needed it fast. Long story short, I checked out their fishing section and found bottom rigs for 59 cents each. Thought that was pretty reasonable, so I picked up a couple more to put on the boat:)

Now the price of their hooks, wow. Unbelievably high.
5th
 

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These "Skip rigs", as we call them, have been out fishing the commercially produced jobs for us this year, and I need to make more to have on hand in case of a major tangle, as happened to us a few trips ago. We use the standard 1 to 2 oz bass sinkers, depending on the current. Snagging one is definitely easier, because as stated above, we usually just lose a single snell.

They definitely have been catching us a lot of perch, and a few rockfish. They wont prevent you from getting spooled if you tie into a cow nose ray.
:eek2:
....and then there's the age old debate of propellers and those pretty red beads vesus plain hooks.


Thanks for the post!
:thumbup:
 

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Very interesting....been making surfcasting rigs like that for years up in Cape Cod for stripers and blues, but with a barrel swivel (no snap) at the top to hook to a large snap swivel on the mono, and a large snap swivel on the bottom of the rig to hook to a pyramid sinker (usually 2-3 oz). Put two loops in the middle and used 5/0 J hooks. I think I used to use 40 lb. leader. Learned to make them in a little tackle shop called the Black Duck, up in Wellfleet. MA. Caught many a fish on my homemade rigs. Good memories! Will try this for smaller/bait fish in the Chesapeake.
 

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Yep, great rig......and not just for little stuff. A family friend was using a larger version, vice a fishfinder rig, put cut mullet on it and nailed a 30" red in the surf down at OBX. And everyone's used stouter versions on those offshore bottom fishing trips. Love 'em!'
 

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I have always used some version of these hand-tied rigs. 50 bronze baitholder hooks + spool of cheap 20/30 mono#= $7 and you can make 25 rigs. You can possibly get 25 rigs in bulk and pay $20 for them. When you were paid $200 a month, this matters! You can still add beads and spinners.

Growing up in South Carolina, having wire spreaders decreased sensitivity and the extra hardware keeps sharper-eye bottom fish like pompano away from biting. I remember bringing in a snag monster and cutting off the wire spreader rigs for the snaps, sinkers, and beads! To me, the wire spreaders were useless.
I use the same set-up for Potomac blue cats in the 40# class except bigger hooks and 60# leader.
 
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