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If drilling through a fiberglass hull, drill half way from the inside out then finish from the outside in. The pilot hole will guide you in perfectly.

When installing the transducer, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the retaining ring. Doing so WILL break the ring.....if not now, then when you are out on the water. Hand tighten it then a max of a quarter turn with a wrench.

DO NOT use a permanent seal when installing the thru hull. A little bit of silicone grease on the gasket is all you need. This way, you can remove it if need be for whatever reason.

Make sure you put the transducer far back enough as to not be interfered with by the water/air interface. Any kind of bubbles around the transducer will make it not work while underway.

What else.....make sure the hole you drill is just barely big enough for the transducer to fit through. You want a small a hole as possible. This way, the transducer seal will have the maximum amount of hull to seal the hole AND there won't be enough space for it to move around in.....causing a leak.

Hope this helps.....

KenY
 

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Lou,

If the manufacturer put a "flat" in for the mounting, then that area should be good.

Whether there is a designated location or not, you can test different locations underway by putting the transducer in a zip lock bag full of water and placing it at the location(s) you have in mind.

You will have to make sure it says in the correct orientation, but it should give you a good idea about flow interference.

Who knows, you may decide to just "shoot thru", as I do with the big Airmar xducer.

Brian
 

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If you haven't already made your purchase, like Brian said, you might consider a shoot through. I think they have come a long way. The big advantage is you can see the bottom while on plane (well and no extra hole in the boat). This means you might not run over the top of good marks on the way to where you are going. You loose some sensitivety but bump it up to 1000 watts and its not bad. The only disadvantage is you have to install a separate temp sensor.
 

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Lou
I have put a couple of them in my boat, but I have a wooden boat and it may be simpler than on the fiberglass. Recently I installed a transducer for a Raymarine depth sounder and it came with a fairing block. Just make sure when you cut the angle on the fairing block that the transducer is perpendicular to the water. The mirror of the fairing block that is outside the hull would be inside the hull so when the nut is tightened everything will line up and not be on an angle. The fairing block also had an antirotation bolt that was mandatory to install. The fairing block coming with this transducer was shaped like a canoe. Caulked it up pretty well and tightened it down and it was fine. Just make sure that you can get to the transduscer from inside the boat as the sensors normally will come out to be cleaned. It really wasn't to difficult, just be careful on the fitting.
 

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Lou, I mounted mine (bronze thru-hull) inside a PVC pipe glued to the hull. Filled it with mineral oil capped it off. It reads at all speeds and have never had an issue with it in 10 years.
 

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I put a thru-hull on my boat, not really a big deal. Make sure you pick a good location, it is a lot of work to patch the hole and move the transducer. If you pick a location that will not allow the transducer to look straight down use a faring block to straighten the transducer up. Airmar sells blocks to match their units. What else???? Oh, my hull was not "cored", if your bottom is cored you should get some advice from someone that has dealt with that issue before you start.
 
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