[27 sailfish]

Some temperatures predicted well below freezing soon - good idea to drain lower unit and put fresh lube in.

Not a hard job at all , remove lower screw first. Put a catch pan under lower unit. Look at the screw - very end is magnetic. Tiny hairs of metal are OK - but bigger pieces mean trouble. Wipe it clean and remove small washer.

Remove top ( vent ) screw and see how lube looks. Depending on brand - it should be a gold or green color. Milky means water got in - exact reason to change it. The seal (s) need to be replaced - job for mechanic.

I let it drain about an hour or so. Trim engine a kiss up / down helps get last drips out.

Refill with hand pump - most marine stores carry them.

Be sure to use proper fluid for your engine brand / HP. Pump until lube comes out vent hole. Put on new washer and install.

Have lower screw ready - undo the fill tube and quickly screw it in. Don't fret a kiss of lube coming out. Double check both screws are snug - wipe up any lube.

I then trim engine up so I can remove prop (s). I pull prop off and the large washer under it.

This lets me check the seal for fishing line. Never know if you picked up some when near docks / bridges / etc. I put marine grease on shaft and reinstall washer and prop. I pull my props around July - just to check. One year I found some braid - luckily before seal was damaged.

Very easy job - maybe hour total but can save you $$$$$ from a burst lower unit.

 

[Jim-in-Md]

Good advice... Off hand, does anybody know the socket size for the prop on a Yamaha outboard (200)?

 

[27 sailfish]

Jim - I used a 1 1/16 six side socket. I think 28mm is real size.

 

[Shadhead]

I got a 10 pack of lower unit oil drain gaskets online for reasonable price. They might be OEM. For the price it might be a good insurance to replace them when changing lower unit oil. And a proper sized screw driver. I've been using a drag link socket that I "tuned" with a file to perfect fit those little slotted headed rascals. Much better.

 

[Jim-in-Md]

I've been using a drag link socket that I "tuned" with a file to perfect fit those little slotted headed rascals. Much better.

Shadhead.... I had never heard the term "drag link socket" before. Its exactly what I've been looking for, but didn't know what they were called. Thanks for the info!

 

[Progger]

I got a 10 pack of lower unit oil drain gaskets online for reasonable price. They might be OEM. For the price it might be a good insurance to replace them when changing lower unit oil. And a proper sized screw driver. I've been using a drag link socket that I "tuned" with a file to perfect fit those little slotted headed rascals. Much better.

Also bought a few gaskets.
AND plugs that take an Allen wrench.

After decades of me mangling the slots because I'm too lazy to walk back to grab the RIGHT sized screwdriver!

 

[Jim-in-Md]

... because I'm too lazy to walk back to grab the RIGHT sized screwdriver!

Been there. Done that. Really, really regretted that!!!

 

[UncleRob]

You should always change gaskets when you change the oil.

 

[Jim-in-Md]

Since we're sort of on the topic... do you all put anything on the lower unit drain screws before re-installing? I've read that some use Locktite Blue, some use Permatex Anti-Seize Lube, and some just wipe'em down leaving the slightest bit of oil on the threads. I kind-of think that if I'm changing the oil regularly that no additional treatment is needed.

 

[dave-va]

Make sure to tilt the motor all the way down to drain any cooling water out of the lower unit too. If it freezes it could crack the casting.

 

[Shadhead]

Since we're sort of on the topic... do you all put anything on the lower unit drain screws before re-installing? I've read that some use Locktite Blue, some use Permatex Anti-Seize Lube, and some just wipe'em down leaving the slightest bit of oil on the threads. I kind-of think that if I'm changing the oil regularly that no additional treatment is needed.

I use Lucas gear oil in my Yamaha's with no supplements or additives and I just wipe the screws clean before reinstalling them with a new washer. I wouldn't want any thread lock because the screws can be hard enough to pull. I've never had a lower unit drain screw back out and I've never noticed any drips. I have had that braid thing around the shaft so now I pull the prop every so often.

 

[27 sailfish]

Jim - I do not put any thing or the threads. The top ( vent ) has lube from it coming out when filled. Lower ( fill ) has lube when fill is unscrewed.

FWIW : I use a large square shank screw driver with open end wrench on it to break screws loose. I push hard on screw driver so tip does not slip - gently turn wrench to break them free.

 

[Jim-in-Md]

I use Lucas gear oil in my Yamaha's with no supplements or additives and I just wipe the screws clean before reinstalling them with a new washer. I wouldn't want any thread lock because the screws can be hard enough to pull. I've never had a lower unit drain screw back out and I've never noticed any drips. I have had that braid thing around the shaft so now I pull the prop every so often.

Thanks, Shadead ! I haven't pulled my prop yet, but I'm certainly going to do it now.

 

[Jim-in-Md]

FWIW : I use a large square shank screw driver with open end wrench on it to break screws loose...

Great idea !

 

[Progger]

FWIW : I use a large square shank screw driver with open end wrench on it to break screws loose. I push hard on screw driver so tip does not slip - gently turn wrench to break them free.

Yup, that's what I did when I WASN'T too lazy, lol.

Then I switched to Allen heads.

 

[27 sailfish]

Progger - Does the lower one have a magnet to get metal " fur " ?

 

[Jim-in-Md]

Yup, that's what I did when I WASN'T too lazy, lol.

Then I switched to Allen heads.

Progger.... where do you get the allen-head bolts? Are they magnetized?

Jim

 

[dban520]

I would say if you have water in the lower when you drain, you should pressure check the lower when you remove it to do the water pump! That is if you do these repairs on your own. I had to fix one of my seals last year I notice with my engine tilted down I saw oil. Pulled the lower and saw the leak was the outer seal on the bearing carrier. ORder a new one along with the water pump kit. Got the seal in without having to remove the bearing carrier and then vacum test and fill with air test and let set. It was good from there.

 

[Progger]

Progger - Does the lower one have a magnet to get metal " fur " ?

Can't remember, changed it a couple months ago. I hope so!

 

[Progger]

Bought them.from Crowley Marine, says factory Bombardier/ OMC part, but does NOT say magnetic.

Sierra sells magnetic ones, described as such and sticks out a little into case.