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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I was wondering when most fisherman that have I/O sterndrive engines winterize their boats.

I have '05 Trophy 2052 WA with 4.3L EFI Sterndrive merccruiser.

Unfortunatley the some of the best fishing seems to be in November but I typcially winterize my boat the 1st week of November to avoid costly repairs from a freeze.

Which means I miss out on the good late Nov. fishing. This is when I wish I had an outboard instead. Preferably I would keep fishing into December.



Thanks in Advance,

Dave
 

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If you're in the water no problem to wait until at least December! In fact you could probably leave it all year with the drive down. I haul my straight inboard in early December. If you trailer I suspect you're okay in November with the drive down unless we get some really bizarre weather but I'll let an I/O guy jump in as I've only owned outboards and inboards.
 

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It might be a long drive but Tuesday 28th evening (6pm) - there is a free seminar on how to winterize your boat/engine/outdrive at the Boater's World in Severna Park,Md.

The store is giving 10% off plus if you spend $70.00 or more-you get another 10% off.That's 20% total :clapping2:.

I ran an I/O for about 6 years and "extended" my season by putting a drop light in the bilge.The warmth of the lightbuld kept the block from freezing.No the safest/smartest thing but it worked.

Now there are heaters made for this :thumbup:.It only takes one cold night to have freeze damage :eek:.
 

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Kats magnetic engine block heater........you can order one through Advance Auto part#1153....$25.88.....no shipping. I never winterized last year, just flushed the motor after every trip and removed the 5 drains from the motor and water pump.......leaves nothing to freeze.


Bill
 

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Dave,
I also have a mercruiser with stern drive. I left it in the water last year until the first week in december and had no problems. Mine has two hoses to drain the block and manifolds, I plan to start draining them after every trip (Starting tomorrow). Just have to remember to re-connect them, or they'll pump the water right into the bilge. (don't ask how I know that....)
 

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If the engine is fresh water cooled(radiator) all you need to do is pop the hoses off the heat exchanger and run anti freeze down the lines into manifolds until it comes out of your outdrive....engine is good to go as is:thumbup:
 

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This is an issue I struggle with every year. I have the same engine in a volvo. Two years ago after seeing how well fishermen were doing at the CBBT I decided I was not going to miss another season so last year I was determined to hold off and was rewarded nicely at the CBBT and off O.C. in December. I ended up winterizing in Jan. I tried the drop light below the block in the bilge, kept a wireless thermometer in there I verified it stayed above 32. Now whether the heat spread throughout the engine compartment is anyone's guess. I also held my breath everytime I plugged it in. Finally I occassionaly had access to a large shed I could store it in for short durations. There are drain plugs and hoses you can pull each time you go out but I would think that would be a pain. I think one of these block heaters may be the way to go if you are going to try anything. I think they can be pricey and my mechanic isn't impressed with them but short of a storage facility it might be your best option. My next engine will be an outboard.
 

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The one year I waited too long about 6-7 yeasr ago and it got COLD, REAL COLD mid November and didn't thaw until Mid January for a week or so. By then it was too late.

The followng year cost me about $800 for a new exhaust manifold and a tilt motor. The tilt motor went bad from the water squirting from the crack in the manifold.

How long is a question of how cold and how long your luck will hold out. I usually do mine the first week in November now. An extra week or two of fishing is mighty expensive when things crack.

Of course, you could wait and just fill the block with antifreeze every trip antil your totally ready to put it away.

For me, this time of year hunting takes over so it's an easy thing to put it away.

Chris
 

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I have a flushing system in my 4.3L I/O. I flush the motor, then put a gallon of pink stuff in a pump up pressure sprayer, and flush the engine (turned off) with the pink. It works like a champ. Why couldn't you do the same with ear muffs? You'll need to run the engine though. My sprayer doesn't have a spray nozzle. I cut that off and put a male hoes end on it.
 

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Manassas, is NOT warmed by Bay water Tempratures --Less than 60 miles from Blue Ridge --Unless ya got a Shead Or Garage to cut down Prevelant winter/fall winds --just a note from a man with an Admiral that Grew up in Remington --geo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks everyone for the advice.

I talked to a buddy of mine and he also says he pops the hoses and dumps the anti freeze down them as well. Maybe that is what I will do that season hopefully it not too hard.


I also saw a winterizing kit on the internet WinterFlush that re-circulates the anti freeze a $160 bucks. But I guess it would pay for it self eventually since you could re-use the anti freeze.
 

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Thanks everyone for the advice.

I talked to a buddy of mine and he also says he pops the hoses and dumps the anti freeze down them as well. Maybe that is what I will do that season hopefully it not too hard.

I also saw a winterizing kit on the internet WinterFlush that re-circulates the anti freeze a $160 bucks. But I guess it would pay for it self eventually since you could re-use the anti freeze.
I saw that winterflush online as well. Winterflush :: Boat Winterizing Kit

Its pretty much a bucket and a pump and something to funnel the water back into the bucket.
Should be able to make one alot cheaper than $160.

I think im leaning towards the Boatsafe Or Extreme engine compartment heaters for my 20' W/A. They are about $300 but thats alot cheaper than a cracked block would cost to repair IMO.
 
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