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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just put this on one post but wasn't sure everyone would see it. So i started this thread.I have a line scale that I'm bring to the tyfest. If anyone is interested in just how much your line may weight as compared to what you think they may be. See me their and we can weight your line/ lines. What is good about knowing the weight is this. Lines have a tolerance just like anything that is man made. you may find a line that really felt good on your rod but when you got a new one, it just didn't feel the same. one may have been on the high side while the other may be on the low side. Its good to know just what that weight is. So you will know.
 

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Pax -
like the cheap, efficient, non-petro/non-polluting auto engine, it already exists...but the government is hiding it to keep the fly fishing economy from taking the massive shock which would result from everyone knowing the correct answer.....{:)
DF
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey guys their is a scale. bwahahaha I need to get potapco mike back here and posting. Mike read up on it when he got into rod building. It has to do with clamping the rod at the butt. and hanging a given number of pennies from the tip. I'm not kidding. Mike know which pennies to use and he has a chart that tells you what line size the rod is when it deflects to a given point. :yes: :rolleyes: :D
 

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Indeed, there is a simple to use method for standardizing rod power and action. It's called the Common Cents system- the word 'cents' a play on the fact that post-1997 pennies are used as the weight standard. Basically, you deflect a rod to 1/3 it's length and measure the amount of weight it takes to do this (power) and the angle of the tip at this deflection (action). There are other measurements you can do, but this tells you a tremendous amount and only takes a few minutes to do.

Myself and other rod builders have been using this since it came out, and while it does not tell you everything about a rod any more than horsepower tells you how fast a car will be, it's a huge help in matching lines to blanks. It also allows me to tell a person with absolute certainty that rod X is faster or slower than rod Y.

Manufacturer rod blank ratings are totally subjective to the point of being a joke. There is a shocking amount of variation not only between rod series (see graph) but also between "identical" rods. I've seen instances where two 4 wt St. Croix rods of identical vintage were 2 line weights different in measured power (measured by the same person who just bought both)!! And now, with line companies beginning to ignore the AFTMA standards, it is even more complicated.



The solution is not rocket science. When you buy a "5" wt rod, do yourself a favor and buy 4, 5, and 6 wt line. Try them all. You may be very surprised at which you prefer.

For more information, check out http://www.common-cents.info/
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks Mike I appreciate you get on line with the info. I've seen Mike use this system on rods and it does work.
 
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