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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
With the nice weather today i want to flush my I/O with some antifreeze.

I purchased an engine compartment heater but for a lilttle more re-assurance i thought flushing it with a 50/50 antifreeze mix would be a good idea.

I found a rubbermaid container that fits pretty good under my outdrive that gets the water level about an inch above the side inlets.

Before wasting alot of money on about 5 gallons of antifreeze, i tried it with straight water.

When i 1st started it up it looked to have good circulation with exhaust coming out the prop area as well sloshing some water out. After about 20 seconds, no exhaust came out the prop and i really couldnt tell if the water was circulating through the engine.

I stopped the engine and restarted and it still didnt look to be circulating.
Firgured i should see some swirls in the tub of water at least.

As this is my 1st I/O im not 100% sure how this system works.

Is there a thermostat in the engine that wont let water circulate till it warms up? (like in a car)

Does the water have to be forced through with a coupler?
I wouldnt assume so since theres nothing forcing it through when the boats in the water.

Does it need to be in gear for it to circulate fully? (the tub i have is to tight for that)

Any quick tips would be appreciated as i would love to be able to get some AF in there while its still warm and not raining. I really didnt want to do the full winterization since i had the engine compartment heater in there.

By the way my engine and outdrive is a 1994 4.3 V6 Yamaha
 

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My guess is the water needs to be deeper so there is some pressure.If the water gets swirling around too much- the lower unit might start sucking air.

Boaters Worls sells a kit to winterize I/O's that is really easy to use.Since we are not going to have freezing temps for a few days- you got time.

Best to use the marine anti freeze straight.It's more expensive but is safe for the waterway.
 

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I have a merc 3.0 and run antifreeze after each use this time of year.i take a 4ft peice of garden hose connect to ears. then while standing on swim deck i take afunnel put in end of hose.start engine poor antifreeze into funnel.i dont get any circulation for about the first half gallon but after that she spits pink.this is very easy with 2 people,should only take 1-2 gallons
 

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i second 27 sailfish on boaters world , the kit uses gravity to feed anti freeze through ear muffs and is fairly inexpensive. I thnk its made by Seabrite, i saw it used on ship shape boating
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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i just had flush kit installed this week on a5.7litre mercruiser,. it has a hose connected straight into water pump.MADE IT REAL EASY TOFLUSH MOTOR WITH ANTI FREEZE
 

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For jet ski's, I use a 5 gal. bucket with a cheap bildge pump bolted to the bottom and a piece of garden hose hooked to the pump. It is wired with alligator clips to the battery. I guess the same would work for an I/O.
 

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The center kit from the link is what was recommended for winterizing by Boaters World.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the replys everyone.

I thought about going ahead and putting something together myself (plenty of 5 gallon jugs at work and lots of different valves laying around in the garage from fish tank plumbing parts) but went ahead and stopped at boaters world (since i needed antifreeze anyway) and picked up a kit. I picked up this one......

Camco Anti-Freeze Winterizing Kit - 65501 - BoatersWorld.com

Looks very easy to use but after reading the instructions, Its says this shouldnt be used with a front engine mounted raw water pump (including most volvos and inboards) unless you use a front engine pump adapter hose.

Not sure why this would be an issue since the pump will suck up water the boat is in but i guess i need to check to see if have a front mounted pump. Right now i have no clue but i think i do from what im seeing in my clymer manual.
 

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Merc and Antifreez

You have to be real careful ,many of the merc I-O motors have sea water pumps( -you will see a strainer under the boat -)if you do you cant pick up antifreez or water for that matter through the outdrive.There will be a belt driven pump on the port side of the motor with a hose going to the strainer under boat .You either need an adapter or pull the hose and feed the antifreez through that .Now I know someone is going to wonder what cools the drive ,exhaust water. The pump in the drive is not there as in my boat or there with the hose disconnected and modified for an engine pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have the yamaha stern drive owners manual and a clymer manual for yamaha stern drives. The clymer manual is for 89-91 sterndrives but mine is a 94 so not sure how accurate it will be unfortunately. Looking through all the parts breakdowns, there is no impellar in the outdrive at all.

It shows the engine water circulating pump in the center front of the engine and the sea water pump at the lower right hand side of the front of the engine (when looking from the front).

Im still confused at whether i need an adapter hose or not because the owners manual states to flush the engine with a regular flushing kit. No mention at all about flushing with antifreeze though. It just seems that if it will circulate the fresh water through the engine why wont it circulate the antifreeze? Possibly because im forcing fresh water into it with water pressure and the antifreeze is only being fed by gravity? If thats the case, i guess i could take the winterizing kit back and pick up a small water pump and drop it into a 5 gallon bucket full of antifreeze and connect it to my flusher.

My other concern now is how long should it take for the engine to heat up, and the thermostat to open and the water flows through the entire system? Thats what stopped me today when i really didnt see a water flow when i had the outdrive submerged in a tub. Im afraid to keep the engine running to long in fear im burning up my water pumps.

Any tips or suggestions??

Last thing i want to do is ruin something when trying to do preventative maintenance!
 

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Really, all you need to do to protect the I/O from freezing is drain the water out of your block and manifolds. There should be drain bolts around the block. (note, this should have been done before the first freeze!!!). You can then add straight marine/rv anti-freeze to the block directly by pulling the hoses off of the thermostat housing and pouring it down hose (this is more for corrosion protection than anything).

There's additional steps for fogging etc. Don't forget to change your engine oil and filter and the water seperator in the fuel line.

Your owners manual may recommend other steps as well.
 

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Really, all you need to do to protect the I/O from freezing is drain the water out of your block and manifolds. There should be drain bolts around the block. (note, this should have been done before the first freeze!!!). You can then add straight marine/rv anti-freeze to the block directly by pulling the hoses off of the thermostat housing and pouring it down hose (this is more for corrosion protection than anything).

There's additional steps for fogging etc. Don't forget to change your engine oil and filter and the water seperator in the fuel line.

Your owners manual may recommend other steps as well.
My 130 HP Merc has a drain hose for the block and one for the exhaust manifold. When I get back from fishing, I flush the motor with fresh water through the muffs, and then I just unclip the the two hoses and let the the manifold and block drain. Then I take the hoses off the water pump and pour straight pink RV/Boat antifreeze in until I see it come out of the drains. Then I reconnect the drain hoses and pour a half gallon into the exhaust manifold hose and a half gallon into the block hose. Finally, I reconnect the hoses to the water pump and close the engine hatch. It is ready to go the next weekend when I put her in the water. After the season ends, I do the same thing, but I also change the oil, oil filter, and fog the cylinders.

Gus
 
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