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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought my boat and trailer new about a year ago. I've launched in salt water about 30 times. I have had problems with the wiring and lights (factory-installed) from the very beginnning. the spliced wires aren't even water-proofed. I'm to the point now where my trailer lights only work right when the trailer is UNDERwater. I'm not kidding. I know it may be some grounding problem.

I'm about to strip all the wiring and lights off and start over. Does anybody know of a good brand of trailer lights that'll hold up for a while? I switched out the blinker/brake lights with waterproof LEDs from BPS, but the really weren't all that waterproof.
 

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KF,,Ya gotta get those lights out of the water if you want them to last. My lights never go in the water!

Here is a few pic's for ya of how I did my LED lights.
I have no splices in my wire that will be under water, but the ones I do have been soldered, liquid elect tape, and I also used heat shrink tubing on them.
I don't know of a better way to do it.

I hope this helps you with yours.............











 

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My lights are sealed LEDs. All joints are: wire ends pushed into the neck of a tube of Silicon, crimp connectors filled with silicon, shrinktube over connectors and joint coated with silicon, shrink tube heated and then taped with electrical tape.
This set up is 3 years old and no problems.
One word of caution, the PVC guides are a good answer to the light problem, BUT watch out for toll gates if he total width to the outside of the PVC is over 8'6". Tolls increase drastically for OVERSIZE VEHICLE.
budc

HAPPY NEW YEAR :clap:
 

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Thanks BUDC!
The last time I did my lights I did them the same way but they were the old bulb type and they didn't last that long.
I don't travel that much with the boat, but the last time I went down to the keys I didn't have a problem with the width. Good info!

One word about the old bulb type lights,,,If you have them use "Di-Electric" grease on the contacts.
I use this on all of my electrical contacts, Trolling motor plug, GPS plugs, VHF radio, and all other lights on the boat.

 

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The hands down best submersible tail lights I've ever used are the Dry Launch brand. They're inexpensive, easy to install and last a very long time...as long as you don't back into something.

https://www.surplusunlimited.com/Me...OD&Product_Code=2429&Category_Code=2700-40-10

https://www.surplusunlimited.com/Me...OD&Product_Code=2430&Category_Code=2700-40-10

I solder all my connections and then coat the joint with liquid electrical tape prior to covering with adhesive lined heat shrink. Combine that with a dedicated ground wire running down each side of the trailer frame and you have a very reliable system. DO NOT rely on the frame itself for your ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thx, Capt Rick.

I think I'll try your setup. I think my uprights'll have to be higher so I don't smack the lights when I'm putting the boat on the trailer. I may even run my wires inside the pipes.

I've got a Sea Pro too. I think we have the same kind of (RK) trailer.
 

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You can run the wires inside and it does look better,,, I thought about it, but changed my mind.
You can remove or replace the uprights without cutting and pulling the wires out the way I did it.

My metal uprights were rusted pretty bad when I installed the LED lights the first time,,thats why I ran the wires on the outside.
I knew I had to replace them pretty soon, thats why they look so new in the pic's. The trailer is a 2003
 

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Thanks BUDC!
The last time I did my lights I did them the same way but they were the old bulb type and they didn't last that long.
I don't travel that much with the boat, but the last time I went down to the keys I didn't have a problem with the width. Good info!

One word about the old bulb type lights,,,If you have them use "Di-Electric" grease on the contacts.
I use this on all of my electrical contacts, Trolling motor plug, GPS plugs, VHF radio, and all other lights on the boat.

The bulb type lights lasted a lot longer when the metal parts are gobbed with grease --even regular old chassis grease. The bulb base and socket packed and then the bulb twisted in place. Once that mess is done, I spray down with NAPA's Chain and Cable lube.
LEDs are a lot better, and GW204 is right on with the Dry Launch lights.
Happy New Year!!
budc
 
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