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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any of you guys Change your own oil on your Yamaha 4stroke outboards?

I have a 115 and was going to give it a try. The owners manual says to heat the oil by running the engine, popping the drain plug in the back of the motor, changing the filter, and refilling....is it really that easy?

Tri-State says its not that easy...are they trying to get my $$?

Any info is greatly appreciated!!!

BH
 

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i changed my oil in my 50 once, and only once. the drainplug is recessed, and causes you to spill oil EVERYWHERE!

the dealers suck it out i think.
 

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BH,

I've done mine twice now......it is "not" complicated.

Buy the Yamaha shop manual, supplies, and do it yourself.

Also,
Buy a 5 gl paint can screw on dispenser ring and when you loosen the oil plug put the ring over the plug, so that the oil is directed away from the outboard....otherwise is has a tendancy to run down the side....loosen it w/ your fingers or a socket......it comes out quick, so have your bucket ready. You can also use painters tape to tape a cut up plastic milk jug to the motor just below the plug and help drain the oil into a bucket.

The oil filter holds a "lot" of oil and first time I changed the oil, I dropped it after it came loose from the threads .....Oops!. Now I put a couple oil absorbant towels underneath it....works great.

Put a rag under the gas filter too.

You might need a set of small metric open/closed wrenches,

Good luck
 

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Even easier, get one of those drill/or electric operated oil change pumps, <$20 @ most auto stores, then insert the small nylon tube into your dipstick, attach to your drill and put the discharge hose (looks like a garden hose) into your oil reclamation container or other approved container, pump it out then take it to the recycle place. You then have the option if you really want to pull the plug and check for metal filings, it won't be as messy. I have 725 hrs on my 225's and have done all my oil changes.

Filter: remove the plastic cover then place a zip lock bag, or two if you'd like, over the filter the best you can, then punch a small hole in it to let the oil drain out easier. It's messy, thus the reason you put bags around it. You can tilt your motor forward if the hole is in front, then slowly remove it, wipe off the excess, inspect, install new filter, torque, add your oil.

I also then put a small label w/ the date & engine hr. reading on the filter cover as a reminder as well as my Captain's maintenance log.

Evan.
 

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Have a pair of Yamaha 225's and do it all the time.Fashion a piece of rubber hose for your drainhole and you won't drip but a drop or 2.put a bunch of towels under your filter and tilt all the way up.Use a gallon ziplock to slide around your filter housing AFTER loosening it.Spin out old filter put a dab of oil on the new filters oring spin it on tight.replace drain plug fill w/oil tilt down startup and check for leaks.Can do both in 2 hrs or less.Good luck.Don forget the lower unit oil too.
 

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Hey Butthead, (sorry, just had to type that!), I do my own on a F250. There is a vendor, Shipyard Island, and his name is Andy. He is on the hulltruth.com website and really knows his stuff. Bought my filters and all from him but he has a high quality tube set-up that screws onto you dipstick (hoping your's is threaded) and can then be sucked out. All the above answers work as well......It is very easy to do!! Good Luck, Paul

Robalo R220/F250
Locust Point
 

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I'll second Mobil's recommendation. I ordered one of the Yamaha adapter and oil pump kits from Andy on THT and it makes changing the oil in my F225 a breeze. You can change the oil and filter in about 30 minutes without taking the boat out of the slip.
 

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I changed my lower unit oil and engine oil in order to winterize my boat. Neither were
hard at all. I couldn't get the oil filter unscrewed though. I couldn't seem to fit my hand in there, and get a grip on the filter without the feeling that I was going to rip something off.
I tried my oil filter wrench for my car and that couldn't fit it in their either. In the service manual they show a wrench for it, so I guess I might have to buy that.
Any recommendations on removing the oil filter?:confused:
 

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Mind68, try a strap wrench or get one of the slip on adapters that you stick your socket wrench into. They don't need a lot of torque when you reinstall.
Evan.
 

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I changed my lower unit oil and engine oil in order to winterize my boat. Neither were
hard at all. I couldn't get the oil filter unscrewed though. I couldn't seem to fit my hand in there, and get a grip on the filter without the feeling that I was going to rip something off.
I tried my oil filter wrench for my car and that couldn't fit it in their either. In the service manual they show a wrench for it, so I guess I might have to buy that.
Any recommendations on removing the oil filter?:confused:
Mind68,
I had the same problem the first time I changed oil on my F115. I took a trip to WalMart and checked out oil filter wrenches. They had a selection of various sizes, which confused me, so I checked out the Fram Oil Filters. Turns out there was a replacement oil filter there for the F115 (#PH6017A). I took that to the oil filter wrenches and bought the size oil filter wrench that fit that filter (Size 'B' I think). Turns out that wrench (which fits a 3/8" drive socket) fit the OEM Yamaha filter (#3FV-13440-0) just fine. This made removing the old oilf filter a breeze. The Fram PH6017A got me through 50 hours just fine also!
 

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What's up Rod. How's it goin'. Changing oil is an easy task. Here's a link from DIY on how to change oil and filter on a 4 stroke outboard http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/bo_maintenance_repair/article/0,2021,DIY_13718_2277516,00.html. It is done on a Merc, but the process is exactly the same. The only difference is the drain plug on a Yamaha is on the back. I use an empty coke bottle with bottom cut off to direct the draining oil. My brother got me the Liquivac for Christmas http://www.liquivac.com. This would make it much easier. Basspro sells an electric oil changer http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog.TextId?hvarTextId=1176&hvarTarget=search&cmCat=SearchResults.

I like DAWGONIT's suggestion of punching a hold in the filter and using a ziplock bag. A strap wrench usually works for me. If filter still does not budge, take a long screw driver and punch it through the filter. Now you have nice handle to torque the filter loose. Just make sure to have some absorbment pads underneath.

Here's a link from DIY on how to change your lower unit oil http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/bo_maintenance_repair/article/0,2021,DIY_13718_2277518,00.html. This is also very easy to do.

I'm sure you will have no problem doing this yourself. You will save a lot of money. Good luck!!!
 

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get a tempo fluid extractor works off of vacuum created by pumping handle on top of unit not very expensive if you shop around west marine actually had a good price on them last yr
 

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I used yamalube for my F225 Yamaha's first 10 hour job- it was easier than any vehicle I've ever changed. I drained (no pump) and since I'm on a trailer it was no trouble at all.

By the way, make sure you know how to fill your lower unit oil from the bottom- I did get a pump/adapter for that, I can't imagine attempting that trick without one.

Anybody have a successful track record using anything (i.e.: cheaper) besides Yamalube?
 

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I,ve got a 115 Yamaha 4 stroke also. As stated previously, it's pretty simple. If you can't find the Fram PH6017A, some other cross referenced filters are WIX 51358, NAPA 1358, AC 2057, and Supertech ST6607. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thank you all for the excellent replies, and even better reference material. I knew I could count on you guys.

I now feel confident doing this myself. you guys ROCK!! :clap:
 
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