Tidal Fish Forum banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
Lets see if someone out there can help me. The engine is a 1997 Johnson Ocean Runner 175.

It all started about two weeks ago right before Christmas. I was running back from the CBBT when a warning buzzer came on. I have four warning lights incorporated into my tachometer. One says low oil, one says no oil, one says hot, one says check engine. The check engine light came on.

I ran fine for another mile or so and then I started losing RPM's quickly. The engine was running very very rough and eventually sputtered out. I got it restarted but could only give it minimal amounts of gas and made at home at 7mph.

After I got it home I determined my motor was only running on 2 cylinders. After talking to a few mechanics I replaced the power pack myself this past Friday afternoon.

The motor was running great in the back yard and over this past weekend and monday I ticked off about 55 miles of which the motor ran flawlessly. I though I had the problem licked. Then, at mile 56, the buzzer sounded again, the check engine light came on again and I began to lose RPM's again. Luckily I was only about a mile from the ramp and got back with no problem. When I got back home, the motor was running on all 6 cylinders again and I could not recreate the problem.

Any suggestions. The key is that the check engine light comes on. This rules out any overheating or fuel problems. When the motor runs, it rins perfect so I think it is something small I just am done knowing where to look.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
503 Posts
i had what sounds to be the same trouble with my 50 hp johnson. it's call going into slow mode.this is done by electrical system if sensor should think motor is in trouble. this allows for min power to get out of trouble but no hgh rpm to cause more damage. had it twice.first time was just bad sensor.second time was electronic black box on eng and i replaced and it's been fine. i deal with a place that lets you talk to a tech.he can walk you thru trob. and send part overnite. i have been pleased with them. mail me if you want name and number. good luck ,b dog
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,744 Posts
I think Gerald is on to something.

If you go out while the motor is cold and it runs up all the RPM's, that is an indicator that the water pump is gone. The engine runs fine when cold, goes into safe mode while hot, like it did the other day.

When was the last water pump/thermostats ?

Mine is going in today for both, around $300-$400. I have done several on smaller outboards (up to 90 hp) for less than $50, but I never tried a 175-200 hp unit, so I decided to let someone eelse try.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
26,187 Posts
If the water pump doesn't fix it it may be a corroded wire.My Merc was 8 yrs. old and one small wire in the harness was bad.Gave me a fit-replaced the whole thing ($600.00).If it acts up on a calm day -pop the cowling and carefully and gently (with gloves on ) tug /wiggle differant wires.My wire was bad in the middle (?).Check/clean all the ground wires you can.Hate to say it but after 10 yrs. of saltwater use-the engine is getting worn.If you can trailer it to Severna Park-Larry at South Shore marine on Ritchie hgwy is really good at older motors that are acting funny. Good luck-hope it's simple fix. Skip
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,576 Posts
Francis,
Having just spent $1,300 and 5 weeks of down time chasing an ignition problem on a 1997 200hp I can certainly sympathize. We changed out all the major components only to find out that it was a bad flywheel in the end.

Are you sure you only had 2 cylinders left? What cylinders where they? Have you looked at the Stator?

The stator is a two fold component. The many small coils you see around the sides are the beginning of the charging system. However, the larger black coils at the back of the stator are the beginning of the ignition system and supply 300ac volts to the powerpack capacitor.

That area of the engine runs very hot, especially if the charging system is a 35amp system. Due to this heat, in time, the large black coils will start to melt down which results in s voltage drop.

When cold, the stator may operate well enough to activate the powerpack, but as it heats up and the voltage drops and the powerpack ceases to function..... result, no ignition. In time, due to the melt down, the stator will not activate the powerpack at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
970 Posts
You should be able to test the stator w/ a meter, without removing the flywheel. I've not worked on an OMC in a while so I'm no help as to the proper procedure, but I'm guessing that you have a manual anyway, right?

Lance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Francis,
I had the same problem B.Dog describes. In my case it was a heat sensor...got some salt water corrosion on it....disables the engine...goes from full power to sputter instantly.

Get professional help!

Rich Redler
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,358 Posts
Maybe I'm wrong here, but if it was the impeller, wouldn't the HOT light on the system check gauges light up before it went into SAFE mode?

I say check all wiring, Stator, give it a good decarb and keep your fingers crossed that the problem is GONE.

- Dae
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Francis
I have a 2003 Johnson and found that my fuel filter had been clogged and I simply removed it and cleaned it. i also added a fuel filter and since has been ok. I also just had a the exact same symptoms with my vpo pump which sends the fuel and oil mix into each carb. had that replaced and everything is ok.

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,010 Posts
No beeps and switching to save mode.. HMM..

Grounding on power pack sounds logical hence the first one went bad.

On my old Johnson the power pack required some star washers to ground it.. Had to sand down the mounting area to get a clean connections.. same symptoms..

Capt Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Budddy of mine is having the same prob. with his Johnson 115 right now. The problem turned out to be ethanol related. Ethanol washes gunk off the inside of the fuel tank which in turn clogs up filters, carbs, screws up fuel pumps & more. Problem is gonna get more common in the coming year as all the marinas & gas stations switch over. The best solution is to run 10 micron (or finer) filters in your water seperator & change them often, once a month if you use your boat a lot. I'm running dual racors in mine & change the 1st filter every month, the secondary filter every other month. So far no problems.

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
power pack?

I had the same problem as B dog also. 2000' 50 johnson. Motor would enter into "safe mode". It happen 3 time in two years, each time motor had a bad power pack.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,358 Posts
DAE,

You assume that there are system guages on the 1993 vintage Johnson, my 1993 does not have any.
Not an assumption being that Francis posted:

"I have four warning lights incorporated into my tachometer. One says low oil, one says no oil, one says hot, one says check engine. The check engine light came on."

- Dae
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Sounds Like a bad stator. Look under flywheel and see if you see some brown stickey stuff dripping off. That is the varnish melting from the shorted winding. I have also seen weak magnets on flywheel, but that is rare.

Cliff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
I had a 1996 200 E'rude OceanPro which did a simila thing a few years ago. I ran from Centreville to Love Pt. where we trolled and LTJed for awhile. when I hit the throttle to head home we went to slow mode with the alarm sounding. Idled 1 1/2 hours home. the cause was not one but both thermostates had rusted through at the stem. Water pump worked fine and enough at idle. Not too expensive and easy as a DIY job. solved the problem and never reoccured. good luck!
 

·
Tidal Fish Subscriber - I Support Tidal Fish
Joined
·
63 Posts
Francis,

I have a 2001 Evinrude 200 and last year had much the same happen to me on Lake Ontario.
B Dog is definitely onto it. In my case it was a low battery that caused the computer to tell the motor to go into "safe" or "slow" mode where it holds the RPMs down to avoid damage. Good luck with it. BRR
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top