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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just picked up a sweet wireline setup and was hoping some of you wireliners out there could pass on some links to some websites that talk about wirelining. I think I have a handle on trolling with wireline but am looking for some jigging tips. For example, when working the tubes, should I anchor or drift? Do I still rig up a 3 way with 24"-30" dropper to wieght to hold bottom and then 15'-20' leader to a bucktail of livebait? etc, etc, etc. I really want to figure out this type of fishing but want to have a good knowledge base before I get out and work the tubes so I don't cause any problems with the others. Thanks!
 

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Concept is correct and adust your dropper to the depth you want to target. The biggest thing is always work down hill. Whether drifting or trolling work shallow to deep it is easier to let out line than take it up and you will save a ton of rigs by practicing this one simple tip.
 

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Over the tubes, you slow troll... don't anchor/drift. The three-way set up you described is the deal. I like 60 lb+ leader. 1/4 oz bucktails with a 7/0 hook, dressed with a large (8") plastic curly tail is the deal. It'll take 20+ oz of lead to hold bottom.

Start at the islands and work your way to deeper water, letting out line and keeping slight contact with the bottom as you go. You'll kind of "jig" the rod, letting the sinker barely touch bottom. You WILL snag and lose rigs... just part of the deal (especially when just starting out).

Success wire lining is as much on the person at the helm as it is the person on the rod. Speed, keeping the boat in position, keeping the baits in position... if not, no fish and lots of lost rigs. For example, on a hard outgoing tide the bow of the boat will be pointing up the bay, and you'll be crawling down the tube... not trolling in a straight line, as the tide will wash you out toward the ocean. If you're crawling on top of the spine, your baits will be on the ocean side of the tube, not on top of it. A good "reference point" is the brick houses on the islands... while trolling, if you can see the sides of the houses, you're off the tube (or close to it).

Best advise I could give you is to go with someone who knows how to do it...

OH, and if you get snagged, and there are others working the tube, BREAK THE RIG OFF! Don't try to circle around and save your rig. Odds are you won't be able to get it and you'll foul everyone else up while you're trying!
 

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That is some great advise Al B, I can add that you may want to invest in a 20oz. Do-It Bell Sinker Mold and pour your own lead. On a great day fishing the tubes or pilings you will only loose 3 or 4 sinkers and catch lots of fish, on a bad day you will loose 6 or 8 and not catch anything.

This is a good link to read...

Wire
 

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also, most of the time it is the weight, not the jig, that snags. I like to use lighter# line on my dropper to the weight than on my main line and leader line.
 

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Al B has concise accurate information. The only thing I would add is that the Angler needs to communicate the position of the baits to the boat Capt. Sometimes by looking at the buildings it appears that the boat may be in position but the current has the baits way over the tube. I have gotten into several shouting matches with my brother simply because he doesn't tell me what the current is doing to the bait.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That is great information. Doesn't sound like I will be doing too much wirelining over the tubes by myself. Keep the info coming. School is in session!
 

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As far as the lighter leader to the sinker versus the bait, with the cost of lead at the tackle stores being .20/oz, a 20 ounce sinker is $4.00!!!! I'll use 80 lb test on the dropper AND the leader (1/4 oz bucktail costs less than .50 to make).

I'll "second" the communication!
 
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