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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a few questions way out side my area of expertise and was hoping some of the resident experts woudl chime in........

I have a 2002 Albemarle twin screw. What kind of shaft seals are on that boat? It's been 5 years, should I look to replace them or wait for a sign? Should I upgrade or just replace with OEM? The bottom paint is good for maybe another year if I didn't need to pull it. If I should pull it, where in the best place to do the work from Rudee Inlet VA? Basically, I know nothing on the subject and would like to learn a little and definately don't want an issue in the canyons this summer. Every year a few carolina built boats go down and I don't want it to be me. Thanks for the input.

If I pull the boat....I would repalce the seals, paint the bottom, replace the zinks, turn the props, maybe install a new transducer, and maybe install the underwater thru-hull LED lights. Did I miss anything?

Bill Fisher
 

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Capps- depends on what kind of shaft seals it has= dripless or packing- if packing then just needs to be the packing replaced. I dont know about maint on dripless- , cutless bearings just need to be checked as well- maybe rudder packing also
 

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I'm no expert, but my last two inboards had dripless shaft logs, you'll know when they are dripping because it'll spray water around the bildge area unless there is a some type of spray shield. If they need to be tightened you just loosen up the set screws on the stainless collar and slide it a fraction closer towards the prop. I had no real maintence on them, just verify the boot doesn't have any cracks or anything. I made sure the small suction line from the rubber boot was not clogged with anything (this from what I understand lubricates the boot/log area with water) to prevent the ceramic (I think it's some type of carbon or ceramic type surface on the rubber boot section) from burning up on the stainless collar....this was my understanding of how the it worked on my boat...I might be wrong. There might be a website that has installation/maint brochure for shaft log if it is dripless.
You did forget one thing.....the joys of waxing your hull while it is out of the water......
I think most of those guys that have gone down around here had I/O's......but once again I might be wrong...
 

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Bill, the seals I bought were $300 and change each.... Labor is gonna be anywhere from $250 to $1000 depending on how much work they have to do to get the shafts pulled and the seals set... then the haul out and bottom spray was $450 plus $25 a day its on blocks....$200 a gallon for two or possibly three gallons of bottom paint.... Another easy $100-$200 on painting supplies.... $140 in zincs....A whole bunch of my own personal blood, sweat, and tears and I'll be done. If you think you are gonna need new seals soon, you probably will. Might as well do it while theres nothing biting. Whole lot better to be safe than sorry. Just get nickel and dimed to death.
 

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Ill try again- i was at work the first time I answered and had to make it short- if you have standard packing gland shaft seals unless something catastrophic has happened recently( run argoung at 20 knots or something) then those packing glands should last a long time- The most you will need to do- (and still might not need to) is replace the packing itself. First off you need to know what kind of driip rate you are getting while the boat is in the water and at speed. If the drip rate is anywhere from 3 to 10 drops per minute then you are fine. You want it to drip a little because that water lubricat4es the shaft when it is spinning. To tight and you can overheat the shaft itself and damage it.If it is more than that then (depending on how long ago the packing was last changed) you change it out for some fresh.
The newer style packing doesnt wear out like the old (non PFTE) and the stuff lasts a long time. I have a packing nut wrench you can use if you like or its always nice to have one handy on the boat.
- Now if you have those dripless packing logs like some people are using these days, then refer to Sublimes post , I cant help with those. You will hear good and bad about them so personally, I have elected to stay away from that design and use the older style. If your boat is at rudee , I dont mind riding over and looking at them for you if you want. I just live a couple of miles south . Your rudder post will probably have the same style packing glands as your shafts. These you can check and repack also but you can tighten the packing down with no drip at all because the shaft isnt turning- it doesnt need lubrication like the prop shaft does
You need to look at all this stuff while the boat is in the water- actually you can change out the packing in the water as well, not hard at all unless the nuts havnt been broken and "exercised" in awhile.

Cuttless bearings are checked easily once the boat is out of the water. When the prop is removed you can simply grab the shaft from behind the strut and move it from side to side and check for excessive play. Hard to predict when one of these will need changing- the part isnt much but the labor is. You are probably looking at 200$ a piece to have someone change them for you. Like I said though- they could last you a long time as well. The original one is in my ride and its 29 years old- but it will be changed in the near future.

Thats about all I can think of at the moment- (other than the 1 coat of collonite fiberglas cleaner, then 2 coats of collonite fleet wax,lol)

I highly recommend hauling her at Capps in Lynnhaven- they are great people, can fix anything you want them too, or let you do your own. I pull mine there almost every year.
 

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The PYI dripless seals recommend changing the bellows portion of the seal every 5 years. Just the bellows, not the rotor or stator. That is so they do not deteriorate (crack then tear), but also because they will take a set over time and the preload from the original 3/4" or 1" compression will lessen. My shaft size requires a 1" compression, and each year when I pull the rotor back the bellows only come back about 1/2 to 3/4 inch due to this set. Over time the pressure developed by the bellows will drop and leakage will begin.

If they are less than 5 years old and not leaking, I'd say leave them alone. If you can ID the mfr, give them a call. In that size boat they are most likely PYI, though.

Bill.
 

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No problem Bill, nice to meet you as well- here is the info for Capps Boat Works-

2102 W Great Neck Rd
Virginia Beach, VA , 23451-1504
Phone: 757-496-0311
FAX: 757-496-0386
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks again Craig

Capps is pulling us 4/25

Painting, Zinc's, props, bellows on both shafts, moving the transducer and patching the old hole

And I guess my arms will have to do the waxing

Won't be cheap but it will be ready to go for a while.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
While the big boat is out of the water u need to get the bass boat ready. Largemouth are moving on the bed already. I caught three over 3 lbs today.

Matt
Matt

I got 1 little boat up to 100% and the other one is one the trailer and 50% complete. I should have it done this weekend.

I will let you know and we can hit the marsh and pull all the LM's off the beds

Bill
 
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