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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
These are 1/4" bungs punched out on a dril- press from scraps of the same Okoume as the hull, then pounded in and glued into place. The screw holes were recessed using a Fuller bit. There are also a couple hundred bronze ring nails plus epoxy between the floor timbers and the underside. I cut them off and sanded them down flush this evening. Tomorrow I need to add fillets with thickened epoxy in the corners of the motor box but have to run up to West Marine first to get some more cotton filler. I also have to plane sa 1 1/2" flat spot down the center to add a shoe out of white oak after the fiberglassing is complete.

My [email protected]^[email protected] dishwasher overflowed this weekend so I pulled the hose from ouder the sink and trried fishing a coat-hanger through it. No luck. So last night I put some drain cleaner in it. No luck and now I have a mess on the kitchen flooor. So, I'll have a temporary stop-work to pull that apart. Too many interuptions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
D- You can make these with a regular drill and $2 bit just as fast as I did on a drill press. That's because I had to pull every one out with an ice-pick (small screwdriver works). You want to countersink and fill as another layer of protection. Jim
 

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Jim,

I was going over the plans and looking at the amount of wood I would need for the floors. I noticed in the chart that the bottom notches where the floors attach to the keel are different depths. Is there a reason for this or am I reading it wrong?

I also have a questions about the bevel for the sides and the bottoms of the floors. If the dimensions are on the aft face of the floors and the bevel is aft how does that work? Am I drawing a pattern on the wood for the floor to be cut and then setting the circular saw to the bevel (either in or out depending on fwd or aft (respectively)in the chart)? At least that is what I gathers from the description and trying to visualizing it in my head.

THANKS

-D
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Floors

D - Cut the notches exactly as called for in the plans at various depths and that's important. I drew the notches with a pencil and then used a saw to cut the down lines and a chisel across the width, each side to the middle. Place a level on top of the floor timbers as you are seating them in the notches. Notice also that the spacing is not all 12 inches apart, the first one I believe is 13. I had a conversation with the Wooden Boat instructor on the depths issue because we made them all 2 inches in class. He said that was to save time but the boat looks and handles much better when you go by the plans. I would also using a 2x10 or at least a 2x8 for the strongback. Less play when you are building. One more thing. Every person I talked to has had to use shims somewhere on the floor timbers while installing the chines. It may be because Dave's plans are off somewhere but not to worry, the epoxied shims are stronger than the solid wood. You'll see when you lay the chines against the sides of the floor timbers. You want to look down the sides and have fair lines on each side and you want the chines to have a nice clean bow, same on each side. So, you'll be making some adjustments using small shims glued to the sides of some of the timbers. Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Bevels

D - The bevel angles fore and aft are so the (sides) chines fit against the floor timbers much better. The timber-sides are relatively flat in the middle and angle towards the bow in the front and towards the stern in the rear. Think about how the chines, 4 one-inch strips of mahogany stacked on top of each other, are bent towards the bow and towards the transom. I bought a little bevel gauge at Lowes that made drawing the angle-lines on the floor timbers easier. I'll send you a picture of it when I get home this evening. I also made patterns of every floor timber out of very thin plywood first and used them as a pattern to trace my lines onto. I cut them all out as rectangles without the bevels, then I sat at the kitchen table with the written plans in front of me and drew all of the bevels onto them, one at a time. - Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Finishing

Bob - Funny you should ask. My mother has been pressing me to finish the inside with a natural wood look. I plan to coat it with epoxy resin mix, which would do that but I told her that I'm pretty sure I'll want to rough sand and paint over the epoxy with good quality (white) paint for improved protection. I'm not sure what color for the exterior, possibly a mid-range blue or green but the lower hull you see in the pics will get painted fairly soon, right after fiberglassing. So I need to decide on a color so it matches well. I like white gunwales and trim in other Simmons that I've seen and I really like the canvas rub-rails I've seen on boats in Maine. That's also practical for protecting the finish. Jim
 

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I haven't seen all of the project pictures but I'm assuming you're putting in some kind of bench seating, if so you might want to consider varnishing them for accent. As for paint colors, here's my vote; I'd go with some kind of off white on the inside, like a light tan or light grey etc, pure white is just too bright. For the sides, I like that duck green look, possibly blue, either way go as dark as possible.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Seats and Paint

My old Larson 17 had those old back to back seats that folded down into a full prone position. You can seat 4 with the back-half of the boat completely open. I'm thinking along those lines, not sure. I always put the crab basket on the seat opposite, on a towel. One time I remember that I was heading out early on a Saturday morning, a large jimmie was sitting on that passenger seat looking at me. I hadn't even started crabbing, meaning that he had been in the boat an entire week , so there had to be enough water below to keep him alive. That crab went back overboard, he deserved to swim again. I really like your paint ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Color

Bob - I have to decide the color because I want to paint the bottom right after the fiberglassing. This weekend isn't working out for working on it. Just my lucky day, a new West Marine catalog arrived in the mail today and they have a nice paint sale. For the builders out there, West Marine might seem a tad expensive at first but once you start buying epoxy, etc., they start sending you coupons and great deals. Last weekend I had coupons worth $70 on $150. After looking at the bottom color options... 2 shades of blue, brick red, light green, black and some others. I called and I'm going with Interlux ACT for the bottom in eggshell white, which is also how I'll do the interrior - thank you. I'm also thinking about an olive or mid-green for the body with the eggshell gunwales and interior. Cheers, Jim
 
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