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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Here are some pics of the same model of boat (last August, Wooden Boat School - Simmons 18) flipped right-side up with installation of the lap-frames. I did a lot of this in class last summer and it's a pain/tedious but once you get the hang of it, it's not too bad. They are important for adding rigidity and strength plus the gunwales go on the tops. You use a compass-scribe and follow the lines of the laps up the sides - fore and aft - while holding the frames in-place with a clamp and a small block at the top. I hope these pics help and I'll add more of a how-to description later. One of the pics shows how they are glued and screwed from the outside into the laps and another shows the finished frames with pre-drilled holes. You can use stainless steel screws instead of bronze on these except for the very bottom or garboard strake. You want a good tight fit, so you take them out and put them back in several or more times, making small adjustments on a band-saw. Again, this is the class boat so it was done quickly and notice they didn't put rear-transom frames on ithis one. The magazine article shows the use of a couple of spreaders width-wise across the top of the boat, recommended for keeping the sides equidistant. When you see the "Table of Offsets" in the plans, that's what that's all about. T.N. Simmons didn't do any of that, all by memory and eye. In one pic, you see a home-made wooden clamp. I could post pics on how to make these but don't bother. I bought ten 8 1/2" deep clamps that are perfect from installing and riveting/gluing he lapstrakes, from Harbor Freight in Laurel for about $5 each. They have a store in Baltimore too, lots of really cheap building supplies like clamps, from China, not great... but they work. Gotta run. Jim
 

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