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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last trip to the CBBT I was to meet Simon a specified time with my boat. About a half hour before leaving time I hitched the boat and noticed some steering fluid in the well. Tried to turn the wheel and it just spun. I think temp extremes bring out the worst in hydraulic steering.

I called Simon and said the trip may be off, that I would try to fix it and get back to him. Also called our buddy boat guys and said things looked doubtful.

In 18 degree weather I had to call my old buddy Wit (Wit hates the cold) and get him to come over and help bleed and fill the steering. We got it bled but I was not as prepared as I should have been. My hands were numb, the wrench was not great, the hose was too thick and stiff and we made a mess both at the helm and back at the motor.

I made up a kit for the next time. I will keep it with the boat. It contains:

1/2" switching ratcheting box wrench (it has a lever and does not need to be turned over)
18" of clear thin hose
Threaded hose attachment for helm
Jar with hole punched in top for bleeding hose to go through
New bottle of steering fluid
Block of wood cut to proper length to block motor from turning


It is never pleasant to discover play in your steering, but if simple bleeding and filling will cure it, I am now prepared.

Maybe this will help someone else save a fishing day.
 

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Also check the glands[seals at the cylinder]for the slightest leak.Over time you will loose fluid which will be displaced by air sucked back into the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Jerry-

I was going to ask Harvey this week about that but since you brought it up, can you expand? If the seals drip a little fluid over time, should they be replaced? What is the job to replace them? Is it major or pretty straignt forward? Where do you get the seals? Any special tools needed?
 

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Bill I bought the kit from Faucets in Annapolis. You get a spanner wrench and two glands[seals].It is easy to replace them just disconnect the steering arm and remove the glands.The kit does come with a set of instructions.You may have to use a punch and hammer to loosen the glands but don`t worry about that because your gonna trash em anyway..When I did mine I only had one that was leaking so I still have an extra one incase of a future failure.
 

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Biil,Have the same problem with mine!Noticed last year a little residue in the motor-well.At the end of this year I had to bleed it out and noticed More fluid in the well.Seal need to be replaced,I'll have to wait until Spring now as mine is wrapped up for the Winter.[Mike]
 

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Bill, Thanks for the tip. Was with Old Yeller at Alantic Beach when his steering went out. Turned into a real fire drill which would have been alot worse if we had been out fishing. I need to get prepared for when it happens to me.
 

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bill its an easy job, like jerry said kit has new end caps with seal and spanner wrench. i would contact sea star with you model number and s/n to make sure you are receiving the correct parts. your system show not leak, no drips. need two people to bleed, my wife turned the wheel for me. no, no honey the other way. also had to bleed system after i installed a s1000 AP. on a diff. subject. what do you know about penn ssg reels, they have the old (good) ht1000 drag system. i think they are Chinese, don't hear much about them. bmail if ya like. ps. i have a spanner, if you only want to change the seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks John-

Most likely all the Penn's except the Internationals will be made in China. It seems to be a fact of life. Most spinners will now be made in Asia. The USA Slammers have been good for me but I do not know about their other spinners.

Slammers are very simple and easy to maintain. The parts that count like main shaft and bearings are also stout. There is no reason a quality US designed reel cannot be made to US standards in Asia. I wish it were different but that seems to be the reality. Going to try one soon and see if it matches up to the US Slammers.

Shimanos are OK but I got tired of the loose handles on my Stradics. I guess I am the only guy to pulverize a Sustain 4000 in one season. All internal moving parts were replaced by Shimano with a note saying that the reel was used too hard. What's that? I use my Slammers just as hard with no problems and they are half the price. I pump big fish but crank in smaller ones. If a reel cannot take that for at least two years, I am not interested.

Have not tried Diawa reels in 30 years. Back in the 60's (whoops that is 40 years) those silver Diawa's were pretty crude. They have had time to improve them over the years. You just cannot try them all.

Right not I am fishing Slammers and PT Cabo's.
 

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Eminent Brother and esteemed fellow Parker owner:
Well you can always go to a baitcaster if you fish too hard for an expensive spin reel!!!!! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey GB-

I have several. Like to jig with them but do not like reeling in one fish after another like encountered at the CBBT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Found my SeaStar booklet that came with the boat. It too some looking.

I have the HC5345 steering unit. The Seal Kit is #HS5157 which includes the glands, spanner wrench and an assembly guide tool. Looks like an easy job to replace. The first warm day I will do it. Mine is not leaking bad but drips a little fluid. Maybe new seals will cure it.

Thanks John, Mike and Jerry for pointing me in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi Tom-

Pretty sure there are no scratches on the pistons but I will look more closely. I am going to get the parts this week but it will have to get a little warmer before I change the seals.
 

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Hi Tom-

Pretty sure there are no scratches on the pistons but I will look more closely. I am going to get the parts this week but it will have to get a little warmer before I change the seals.
I should say, unless you have a heated workspace where you can bring all the components to a reasonable temp, waiting for a break in the temp is a wise move. Rubber gets wierd at these very low temps. (I did a fair amount of testing in a cold chamber on Army automotive items, at -50f most rubber assumes the properties of glass or ceramics, including the soles of your shoes!)
Pat in Joppa
 

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Bill... another thing you can also take those used glands to a hydraulic shop and have them slip new seals in them.I have been told the cost is just a few bucks,that way you will have a spare or two. I found this out after I replaced mine.
 

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Bill - I've found that my 2003 SeaStar leaks a little at very cold temps - then it was fine the rest of the season. Based on responses at THT, this may be the nature of the beast.

I bleed the system in May.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I agree Pax. I think a little drip now and then is not unusual but I had several drops back in the motor well most of the season this year, so will go for the seals. Always wondered what was involved in replacing seals and now I am going to find out.

A mechanic told my buddy to spray the rods with a little WD-40 and wipe them down after they have been sitting a while. The dirt on the rods can wear the seals. It makes sense but it is not something I have been doing.

The moving back and forth against the fluid pressure with all the towing I do may also wear the seal more quickly.
 

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Yeah - I've been doing that lately too. I use silicone instead of WD though. Non-synthetics will break down rubber parts.

Over the years, I've found that the only thing I'll WD for anymore is cleaning stuff or drying out ignition wires on the old lawnmower.

It doesn't protect anything, and I think it may have actually damaged the bluing on one of my pistols years ago.
 
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