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Koah Roller Speargun, 100 Euro
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have always wanted to learn how to service my own fishing reels. I have been lurking all over Alan Tani's website ( http://alantani.com/ ) for years telling myself...."one of these days I am going to spend some time to learn this stuff". Well this winter I finally made the plunge:smartisme2:. Most of my stuff is not that complicated; mostly Penn 209, 309, 330, 113, 114 and some Shimano TLD and Tekota reels and they spread in age from vintage 1950s to within the past few years. Alan's site provided me with everything I needed to get set-up; the correct grease, lubes and tools. I learned what to grease and what to lube. He has a section devoted to the tools and materials you will need (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=3.0). I learned where to buy my parts and where to get schematics for each reel so I would know with certainty which parts to buy. Once you learn how to breakdown and reassemble one Penn conventional reel you are on your way, because they are all fairly similar. Alan has a a "Reel Rebuild Tutorial" area on his website that is broken down my reel manufacturer (Penn, Shimano, Daiwa, etc). Within each area you will find a fairly detailed thread devoted to the most popular reels. There are step by step instructions, with pictures, showing you how to disassemble the reel, how to service it and how to put it back together. I have realized how important it is to service your reel even when it is brand new. Many of the internal metal surfaces of today's reels are assembled without any corrosion protection. Certain items should receive a little coating of grease while others a drop or two of your chosen lube with corrosion protection (i.e. Corrosion X). It doesn't take much lube either; in some areas too much lube can seep into your drags and you do not want that. Another important thing I learned is why you want your drags to provide a smoooooth release as opposed to a jerking type release. I learned how to replace my drags properly and immediately noticed the improvement.

If any of you are thinking about busting open a reel or two, I urge you to give it a try. It is not that difficult. If I can be of any help please send me a PM. I would be more than happy to try and help from the perspective of one newbie to another. I have assembled a 'folder' full of bookmarks for sites with information that might be of help:goodluck2:....Don
 

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I've been thinking the same thing for the last couple of years and I've read Alan Tani's posts with interest. How hard could it be but I just know I'll be the one who put's it back together backwards or with a couple of extra parts sitting around when I'm done. Glad to hear you are taking the plunge. Good luck.
 

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Koah Roller Speargun, 100 Euro
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've been thinking the same thing for the last couple of years and I've read Alan Tani's posts with interest. How hard could it be but I just know I'll be the one who put's it back together backwards or with a couple of extra parts sitting around when I'm done. Glad to hear you are taking the plunge. Good luck.
No way...if I can do it so can you. Pick out which reel you want to rebuild, or change the drags, and I will try to locate a link to get you started.
 

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Koah Roller Speargun, 100 Euro
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey Don,
I've got about 30 reels you can practice on if you want! lol...............................Mark
Is that before or after you get me to re-splice your anchor chain?
 

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After actual fishing, servicing my reels is one of my favorite past times!
I've learned a great deal about how they work and variations between different manufacturers. It's gotten me into some really interesting reels that I get off ebay and repair... my newest (and now favorite reel) is the Shimano Triton Beast Master 12/30! It's a big 3/0 or small 4/0 sized reel that is 2-Speed and is very heavy duty and handles umbrellas like it's its job! Has a canvas drag... not the rubber ones that melted with age... learned this from Alantani's posts.

Have fun and take a look at ones you can get for cheap off ebay and repair yourself!!!
 

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I'll bring a few over like we talked on the phone. I would love to learn to do them myself. Have a good one!...............Gary
 

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Don; glad you are a "handy" type of guy. I removed the screws and clipped the wire to your downscan/sidescan transducer. Would you know how I would go about splicing a new cable to the transducer and attaching it to my HDS 7?
5th (Marty)
 

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Good winter project, Don. Its not hard at all. All you need is some cal's drag grease, corrosion x, rocket fuel bearing lube,a paper towel and a screwdriver. Anyone can do it, its whether you have the time and desire.
 

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Koah Roller Speargun, 100 Euro
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Have fun and take a look at ones you can get for cheap off ebay and repair yourself!!!
Picking up deals on Ebay is a blast. I have bought a number of vintage reels on the cheap and had fun restoring them. Unfortunately I have run out of rods to mount them all on. Can't have too many good reels I always say.
 

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One tip - learned the hard way.

Be sure to spread a towel on your workbench - plus another under your work area.

It's amazing how far a tiny SS screw can bounce - then disappear. Searching for hours will not find it and a magnet is no good.

Trust me - it will show up after you order a new one.

The towels do a great job at catching parts. No idea how to prevent the springs from zinging off across the room though.

They end up on top of ceiling fan blades - FWIW.
 

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Koah Roller Speargun, 100 Euro
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
One tip - learned the hard way.

Be sure to spread a towel on your workbench - plus another under your work area.

It's amazing how far a tiny SS screw can bounce - then disappear. Searching for hours will not find it and a magnet is no good.

Trust me - it will show up after you order a new one.

The towels do a great job at catching parts. No idea how to prevent the springs from zinging off across the room though.

They end up on top of ceiling fan blades - FWIW.
Skip - I use larger sized soda boxes as my 'work pit'. They are approx. 18" long by 13" wide with 2.5" sides. Along with those tiny dog springs that just seem to walk away, I like to be sure everything stays in a concentrated area. Also, if I need to set a reel aside I just put the whole box up on a 'high' shelf until I am ready to finish the job.
 

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The towel is a huge help... but if you have dogs make sure to open up your reels in a spot that they rarely frequent.
It's amazing how their fur can get on your fingers and stick to gears or anything else that has oil or drag grease on it!!!
 

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Nice work Don. Alan's website is terrific.
Question, did you grease your drag washers?
I think manufacturer's have been listening to his opinions and now incorporate some of Alan's improvements to their new reel lines. For example, Okuma now features Cal's drag grease in their lineup. He's had a nice little debate with Avet on the drag grease issue. Here is a link to Avet's response to the grease/no grease set ups after testing both
.
http://www.bloodydecks.com/forums/avet-reels-support/104954-grease-not-grease.html

Not sure if greased washers are necessary for stripers in the bay, after reading the link, but to keep saltwater out I find it hard to fault using drag grease.
By the way, I've got a few extra 309 parts from reels I didn't reassemble. Let me know if you need anything.

Skips towel idea is spot on!
 

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A wet drag on a stock stack doesn't buy you much. I tried just the grease the first time around and wasn't impressed.

Next, I tried replacing the fiber washer under the main gear per Alan’s instructions. That change made a pretty tried significant difference. I then went to my bag of surf reel tricks and honed the drag plates and got rid of the tension washer on the Star drag. This got me more than #20 of drag and one heck of a free spool on both the Penn 330 and 320 reels. Next trick is to find someplace I can buy harden drag plates that will fit the Penn 3XXGTi series reels.

BTW: Cupped washers sux. A major cause of drag problems on the reels I service
 

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Yea, I think he greases the washers to keep saltwater corrosion out. He has some nasty pics of a non greased, nearly new Avet on his site that stirred the pot.
I've never changed the fiber washer, but now I'm seeing how you've gotten the results you posted about the 320-330's comparing them to larger reels with higher stock drag numbers:thumbup:.
 

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Koah Roller Speargun, 100 Euro
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Nice work Don. Alan's website is terrific.
Question, did you grease your drag washers?
I think manufacturer's have been listening to his opinions and now incorporate some of Alan's improvements to their new reel lines. For example, Okuma now features Cal's drag grease in their lineup. He's had a nice little debate with Avet on the drag grease issue. Here is a link to Avet's response to the grease/no grease set ups after testing both
.
http://www.bloodydecks.com/forums/avet-reels-support/104954-grease-not-grease.html

Not sure if greased washers are necessary for stripers in the bay, after reading the link, but to keep saltwater out I find it hard to fault using drag grease.
By the way, I've got a few extra 309 parts from reels I didn't reassemble. Let me know if you need anything.

Skips towel idea is spot on!
Thanks for the offer on the 309 parts, I will keep that in mind. As far as 'to grease' or ' not to grease' ? noidea That is the question. As an Alan Tani greasing disciple, you can probably guess my answer. For others who wish to read Alan's take on the subject... http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=47.0 . He rebuilds/repairs something like a 1,000 reels a year and regularly stays in touch with many others who share their experience as well....Don
 
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