[cisco651]

Hello All...
For some reason you should find yourself having to remove your fuel from your boat, here is a set-up that I have used for several years now that may help you.

You will need:
25' of gas line
30' of electrical cord
A fuel pump (high volume preferred)
2 clips for your battery connection
Heat shrink if you want to
2 small clamps for the gas line connection to pump
1 in-line crimp connector (- Neg side)
1 male/female connector (+ pos side)

This set up cost me about $100. I would suggest using a high volume fuel pump as a regular fuel pump takes longer to pump out your tank. I also noticed that towards the bottom of the tank, there was a build-up of debris that would come out. This is most likely a normal thing being that the fuel will break down and some stuff will get into any tank.

If you suspect debris in your tank which I did, use a 5 gallon gas can with a wide mouth funnel. Place a clean rag over the mouth of the funnel and turn on the pump. Notice if the gas is "orange" (bad stuff) or if the rag collects debris...If it does, you may have to #1 replace your gas #2 clean your tank out.

I noticed a gel type substance was covering a screen which was factory installed on my pick-up tube inside my tank which I removed per MERC's instructions. My OPTI has fuel/water seperators installed on the engine just for this problem.

I ALWAYS ran my boat with 1/2 tank of fuel. I never let it get below 1/2 tank...This was my problem...The 1/2 tank was breaking down thus giving me 1/2 tank of OLD gas. Placing GOOD gas into the tank doesn't make OLD gas GOOD...You just contaminate to GOOD gas...Also...Don't be the first one to Tank-up at the marina in the spring. OLD gas in their lines has been sitting there all winter...I had this problem...

Now don't shoot the messenger but I NEVER leave E-10 in my tank over the winter months. Some others may say it's ok...I don't...I have no performance issues due to OLD gas. I'll use the gas in my boat to fill my truck or car and place NEW gas in my boat when I am going out on the water...

My outboard is designed to run 87 octain...The brainbox in the motor will not allow a change...In the car and truck, the brainboxes WILL adjust to the lower level of octain and auto-adjust to the changes...no performance issues...

All in all I have found that this works for me...I thought I would pass along my findings to you and maybe it will help you down the line somewhere...Good luck this season...

Bruce

 

[Fishamajig]

Where did you purchase the fuel pump?

BTW: Good work - thanks for the post!

 

[cisco651]

Any auto supply should have the pump...A higher volume pump will jack the cost up and your pump time down...

Good luck,
Bruce

 

[shawn fisher]

Very nice post... Thanks for taking the time. I have about 20-30 gallons of fuel left in my boat treated of course. I think I will pump out and use it in the mower or something


Thanks- sf

 

[rj]

An electric pump is not needed, all that is needed is a outboard primer bulb or a $6 shiphon hose from wallyworld & some extra hose to extend it .. make sure the hose outlet is lower than the fuel in the tank, use the primer bulb or siphon hose to start the siphon, as long as the outlet is lower than the tank, the fuel will siphon itself. this eliminates the need for batteries, pumps, & no sparks!!

 

[donp]

How do you dispose of multiple gallons of gas?

 

[rj]

Firestarter, Weedkiller or give it to my neighbor's kids, they burn all I give them in their ATV's & dirt bikes

 

[CSLUG]

An electric pump is not needed, all that is needed is a outboard primer bulb or a $6 shiphon hose from wallyworld & some extra hose to extend it .. make sure the hose outlet is lower than the fuel in the tank, use the primer bulb or siphon hose to start the siphon, as long as the outlet is lower than the tank, the fuel will siphon itself. this eliminates the need for batteries, pumps, & no sparks!!

That's how I do it, gravity is your friend.

 

[Salmo trutta]

You can often take old gas to the county refuse center. But they may limit you to 5 gallons per day.

I also just use the primer bulb. But this way I am not sucking out any bad debris on the bottom of the tank. but even with a good quality fuel pump, how can you see where your hose is to clean the tank. You'd just be blind cleaning.

Thanks for the input. I may try something like that shortly. I probably only have about 5 to 10 gallons but it's been there a long while

 

[Aches n Pains]

Add a 10 micron filter

Bruce,

A nice setup. I have a similar setup although I have added an inline 10 micron filter so that I can filter the gas and separate the water as well. Run it every Spring and sometimes just to clean things up.

Actually, I recirculate the fuel. Tap into the fuel line at the engine and then bring the return line back to the filler neck. Run it for a while, empty the filter, and run it some more.

Sometimes I run it out of the boat, through the filter, and into my automobile so that I burn the fuel faster.

It's a good idea to get a pretty heavy pump as you may have to "lift" the gas in some situations. I'm using a fuel pump from Summit Racing - Part number CRT-P4594. Price was $72.95 recently plus $10 to ship it.

Doug

 

[CSLUG]

Another 2 cents. Don't know a whole lot about DC wiring but isn't the red clamp and black wire for the positive side?

 

[cisco651]

Doug,
I use the 12V pump because I also have to pump up to the gas fill in my truck using the hose. I also like being able to suck the debris out or off the bottom of the tank. You really only have to do this the first time. After that it stays pretty much clean.

I connect the gas line at the bulkhead where the gas line comes out to the motor in the motor well. I'll shake the boat on the trailer to disturbe the bottom of the tank. Thats usually when the debris are sucked up by the 12V pumps draw...A power suck in other words...When you get to the bottom, you'll draw air...shake the boat some more and then watch the junk come out as the remaining gas sloshes back and forth.

I found the using the primer bulb was too slow for my needs and failed to completely drain my system. I could probably use that system now that I have cleaned the tank but I pump directly into the car or truck...therefor need a 12V pump to do this in a timely mannor.

Bruce

 

[Hunter]

I have a 2004 Sea Pro CC and I have tried to siphon the gas, but I can't get any size tube down the filler neck. I have been told there is an anti-siphon device that won't allow you to siphon the gas. Any thoughts on how to get around this?

 

[cisco651]

The anti-siphon valve is usually mounted at the gas tank. It's a fitting that has a ball bearing type ball that slides to and fro...You will need to replace this fitting with a straight thru fitting and reattach/reconnect the hose...low cost fix...To be sure that this is the anti-S valve, disconnect the gas line, insert a wire into the suspect valve...If the wire is unable to go thru, it's the anti_S valve...

On the floor of the boat there may be an access portal...look there first...there may be a 90 degree fitting at the tank with the anti-S fitting screwed in it...and the gas line connected to that...

Bruce

 

[bootster]

All you need is one of these: Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Shake it up and down and it is self priming. All you need is a length of old garden hose.

 

[Fishing-Rod]

There are potentially (2) anti-siphon valves on your boat
------
1. Filler Cap-to-Tank: in-line device to prevent fuel theft
(You may have this, most boats don't)

2. Tank-to-motor: Ball-Bering type fitting on top of the tank to prevent fuel flowing back into the tank (Required by the Coast Guard)
------
There are a wide variety of siphon pumps, the electric one would be very handy, but I use the manual one shown and wait for gravity to do it's job. ;-)

Thanks, Fishing-Rod

 

[POLECAT]

There's more than one way to skin a cat!!!

I have a 2004 Sea Pro CC and I have tried to siphon the gas, but I can't get any size tube down the filler neck. I have been told there is an anti-siphon device that won't allow you to siphon the gas. Any thoughts on how to get around this?

Here's an alternative method requiring (usually) nothing to purchase:

Disconnect the connector or connection in the fuel supply line that goes to the motor and add a length of fuel hose long enough to route it through the bilge drain plug (or over the transom) and a couple feet beyond. Place this hose end in a gas can.

Next, disconnect the vent hose at the vent fitting and connect an air pump to it. Most of us have a 12 volt air pump either in our vehicle or in with our tools. Even a hand operated bicycle pump will work. Activate the pump and watch the fuel flow out of the tank and into the gas can at a higher rate than gravity alone provides.

If using an electric air pump be careful with sparks AND never allow the air pressure in the fuel tank to get greater than 3 or 4 PSI. Close monitoring will prevent too much pressure buildup. If the air pressure exceeds 4 PSI, turn power off to the air pump. Have a second and third fuel container at the ready.

If you tilt the bow of the boat higher than the stern, most of the fuel will be removed from the tank. If there's crud in the tank some or most of it it can be removed by rocking the boat while the fuel is being drained.

Allow the fuel to rest in the containers. Debris will settle to the bottom. Return good fuel back into the boat's fuel tank using a funnel with a strainer making certain any debris is left in the can and not introduced back into the boat's fuel tank. Pump a few more gallons out of the boat's tank to remove any crud in the fuel line from the tank to the motor.

Reconnect fuel supply line to motor and vent hose to vent fitting. Return air pump to neighbor. Job done!

 

[worknon10s]

We've used this method before and it works great removing old gas. As far as disposal- we contacted our marina once a month they get a truck come for gas disposal- they took the gas from us free of charge.

 

[hedjug]

I go by the simple rule that electricty & fuel don't mix. One bad ground or spark in a temporary setup will be the last bad ground or spark you will see. I got a hand pump designed for fuel & oil removal for about $75. I think it's a jabsco.

 

[stevej00]

I have a 2004 Sea Pro CC and I have tried to siphon the gas, but I can't get any size tube down the filler neck. I have been told there is an anti-siphon device that won't allow you to siphon the gas. Any thoughts on how to get around this?

You should be able to go in through the sending unit. I use a welding rod or dowel and tape or zip tie a clear vinyl tube and either use a primer bulb to pump or to at least get over the hump to start a siphon. The welding rod can be bent to get to certain specific locations.

If your up on a trailer...take the rig for a ride to shake up the tank...park it in a location where you can concentrate heavy debris or water to one corner and then start the clean out.

This has work well for a me a number of times.