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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've decided to stick some type of motor on the back of my kayak. Checking on-line I was interested in using a weed wacker modified outboard -- but the noise and having to build a reduction gearbox changed my mind. For now, I'm planning on using a 15 - 30 lb trolling motor.

I have an ocean kayak -- prowler. I plan to create a sleeved collar at the rear of the kayak. This will be made of PVC and use flanges on the outside of the hull at each end -- these will make a water-tight column that the trolling motor will fit through.

I want to be able to remove the trolling motor. To do this, I plan to cut the metal rod of the trolling between the motor and the head unit. Will seal the inside of the tube and fix a waterproof electrical connector at each end. Will use some type of compression/slip joint for joining the rod back together. This way I can separate the trolling motor for placement/removal from the kayak.

A pulley system will be used to control the direction of the motor from the seat area. I plan on leaving the speed control on the handle -- but could move it to the seating area later.

I figure with a 12V - 35aHr battery I should be able to get a good 4 - 6 hours using a low/middle speed depending on the motor used.

Any suggestions?

Dan
 

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The guy at http://bassyaks.com/ makes a trolling motor mount for the 13ft Prowler. I don't know if you could use it on the 15ft model, but it might be worth checking out before you do any cutting.
 

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Do not modify the hull, warranty will be voided. Give bassyaks a call.
 

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I know you're talking about kayaks, but I put a trolling motor on my canoe, been using it for years. Some of my experiences should carry over to kayaks. The canoe is a 16' Oldtown Camper. Troller is 12 volt and has 35# thrust. A 30" shaft is plenty long enough and 35# thrust is all I would want. I think the maximum thrust that's available off-the-shelf with a 30" shaft is 35# anyway. I take along two BPS Power Series 175, deep cycle, 90 amp batteries. Each one weighs 53#. This spring, BPS had a one day battery sale, $65 each... can't beat that. I put one way up front in the canoe to help balance out the load. The battery in use sits under the seat where I'm sitting. When solo, I sit in the "front" seat facing the other way... so technically, the canoe is actually going backwards. One fully charged battery (9 months old) with take me almost 4 miles at top speed, ~4-5mph... like a fast walk. So that's what a 90 amp battery will get you. If you're familiar with the Patapsco, that's the distance from the Harbor Hospital ramp to Fort McHenry and back, all on one battery... that's like a 1000+ paddle strokes I didn't have to do. Frequently when traveling, I'll also paddle. That's gets me another 1+ mph. I can easy change batteries while out in open water, although I rare need to change batteries during a days outing... my back and knees give out first. Hope this helps.

Forgot to add: I think the registration in MD for a boat under 16" is free.
 

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Per my my MD registration form, it is free under for 7.5 HP. But you do have to register and have registration stickers if you have a motor of any kind.
 

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I have a prowler 13 and put a small trolling motor on the back. Its works great.I motor to the fishing area then use the paddle as to not scare the fish. My motor is fixed in a straight position ,I use the paddle to turn. I just extended the wiring and motor top to the seat area. I attached a line to the top of the motor shaft so I can pull the motor up if I want to.But with the prowler,I just set the motor height even with the bottom of the boat,so the boat will hit bottom first... I do have a picture,but not sure how to post it.
Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the posts. I looked at the bassyaks site, looks like the mods are straight-forward. Was in basspro today and bought a minn kota 30. The minn kota has a wide bracket and I should be able to tirm the bracket to attached it to the rear of the kayak. Plan on running motor controls up to the sitting area. Gel battery will go up front to distribute the weight.

Working on creating a release lever for the motor and the cable to raise and lower the motor.

Will let you know how it goes.

Dan
 

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Went to kayaks because of the simplicity and got away from boats because of not having the hassel of motor and other headaches .
Kind of defeats the purpose I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm not a purist. Outfitting the kayak with a motor for two reasons. My wife is a breast cancer survivor who has developed severe lymphadema in her arm. There's no way she can paddle for any length of time. I'm hoping by adding the motor she'll go out every now and then. The second reason is I take the Kayak to Florida [charlotte Harbor/Boca Grande] several times a year. There's just too large an area/too many spots to try and cover just paddling. Also plan on trolling as well.

The way the motor is attached allows it to be removed and will not affect the performance of the boat.

Just another tool in the tool (tackle) box.

Dan
 

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I have several boats and canoes. I have powered the canoe for many years. I'm 66, and love to hear the "first mate" as I call it, run. I use a 3HP Minnkota electric. I put long cables on it and a "Bigfoot" electric switch in series with the motor so I can turn it on and off with my foot if I want. I told Md DNR it was 15 feet instead of 17 because 17 foot needs to pay $24 every 2 years instead of free. Honey, I shrunk the boat. I use a small cruise-n-carry gas motor on the other side of the mount. Mostly to go long distances and the electric to sneak up. It runs all day on a quart of gas. I have several from 1.2 hp to 3.6hp gas motors. Never mount a trolling motor directly to the gunnel of a canoe, always mount it to a thwartwise mount. The breakaway mounts of a trolling motor only work when mounted perpindicular to the keel center line.
 

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That was just my opinion. At my age I may have to do it too one of these days.Maybe sooner.
Guess there are exeptions for motor use and that is a worthy one .Best of luck with out fitting it. Hope it works great and you and the wife get good use out of it and catch a lot of fish.
Hope you post some good reports on the catches. Tight Lines and keep it of the sand bars!.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
BBCroaker -- hope I didn't come off defensive. There are many ways to enjoy a kayak. Similar to a sailboat in that the best time is when you shut the motor off and put up the sails. Nothing better then hearing the water slap the hull and the wind ripping through the sails -- except for the sound of line being dragged off the reel. Not sure of your location, but if you ever want to get together to do some fishin in the yak --just let me know.

Hoping to hook in to a snook in a couple of weeks and be dragged around Charlotte Harbor.

Take care, have a great Christmas.

Dan
 

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No not at all and even if you were defensive doing it for your wife is a good enough reason .
An electric motor won't be to bad.
I had 3 boats got my yaks and didn't use the boats.
Gave my son one jon boat. He has a bass boat too with which he has had problems.
Sold my CC have one jon boat lef.It's setting in the yard .Have 2 gas motors one won't start no fire the other I went to change the water pump and 2 bolts wrung off.
Thats the hassel I was talking about in my first post.
I'm addicted to the yaks now .No turning back. Simple hassel free :clapping2::thumbup:
Oh I'm located in Va. but wanna be a snow bird in Tampa Bay Fl.
 

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DK there are a few flaws in your first design, first off if you hit something submerged you may be in trouble, because the motor won't move. And when your installing it you'll have to tip the kayak on it's side to connect the shafts, that's too much effort. Also a 34 Ahr battery will get you around 3 hours on a 30 thrust lb motor not 5 to 6. Jump up to a 22-NF 55 Ahr AGM and that should be adequate. The hand tiller thing is not the way to go, hook it to your foot braces..
Your thinking that the motor will get you from point a to point b , every motor does that, you want to make yours so your able to get the paddle out of your hands while fishing, so you want to make it as maneuverable as possible. This is what guys who are still fishing with a paddle or pedals haven't experienced.
This is the style of bracket you could try, DON'T USE THE RIVIT NUTS which are molded in to the kayak, they won't hold.
MVC-131S.JPG

Good luck
SteveK
 
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