WHATEVER you buy,MAKE sure you get one with ample capacity!!!!!Make sure you add up,Hull weight,Fuel,T-Top/Hard-Top,electronics,Gear,water,ice and anything else you will carry on the Boat.When you buy one,Pull the wheels and have them balanced and fill the Tires to the max. air pressure on the sidewall.I'd be lookin' at a capacity about 5-600 lbs. over what you will be Towing,maybe a bit more.
Go over every nut and bolt for tightness,re-grease everything that you normally would for maintainence.I know it seems like alot to do for a NEW Trailer....BUT....IF you do,you should not have ANY problems towing and have great tire wear.
I think it all depends on how often you will trailer the boat. I trailer a few times in the spring and a few in the late fall. Most of the season it is in a slip. I have a Venture from Dave's and although it's not one of the best trailers, it does the job for me. That being said, if money's not a problem, buy the best you can afford. 5th (Marty)
Go to OC in summer, PLO in fall and Va. beach in winter and take a look around.You'll see alot of EZ loader, Load Rite and custom aluminum I beam trailers.The guys who trailer alot invest in the better trailers.
The lower priced trailers just do not hold up over the long haul.If you are not in a hurry to buy-the Baltimore boat show is a good place to look for trailers.
You will want a tandem axle for a 23 footer.If we get a nice weekend-stop by Sandy Point about 10:00am and look at trailers there.
My EZ loader is 11 years old and has more then a few miles on it .A good trailer is not cheap but saves you alot of money in the long run.I know guys with cheaper trailers who have trouble after 2 seasons :eek2:.
Bought a new aluminun Venture bunk with disc barkes,plastic on bunk pads,front alignment pads ,led lights,and all stainless fastners,six lug hubs, from Jetts marine in Reedville.They ordered trailer & had in appox two weeks.They lifted boat off old trailer & adjusted it to new trailer while I waited.Great people to deal with & great price !
LoadMaster, Port Clinton Ohio. Gary Shaw will custom design a trailer specifically for your hull. He has options that range from simple replacement of hardware to all stainless steel or something as wild as a complete self contained three hose 50 gal fresh water washdown system.
Just got a Loadrite for mine. Its a 22 foot GW Seafarer, weighs about 5000lbs without gear. The trailer is a aluminum I beam, bunk, with brakes on both axles, stainless lines and fittings rated for 6000lbs. Its has torsion axles and they are great, much smoother than leaf springs, plus leaf springs always rust. Cost me 4k but so far its the best trailer I have ever had. Hope it last for 10 plus years.
I've got a load-rite... so far so good. 4 years and going. I believe it's considered a mid-range trailer. Depending on where you live (and/or trailer), you may need brakes on both axles or only one... or maybe none at all. I've got disc brakes on both axles, torsion springs, 2 speed manual winch. I would opt for those 3 options without a doubt... it pulls and stops like a dream. I put around 5 thousand miles on mine each year.
Reel Draggin.... I just took a close look at your setup. What keeps the boat from surging forward when you have to mash the brakes? Usually the bow eye is below the roller. Your setup is something i've never seen. Not saying it's wrong... just wondering.
Just ordered my Loadmaster from S&S Marine in Va yesterday. Aluminum bunk with dual Kodiac disk breaks, LED lights, hub/spare tire mount, front bunks, stainless steel package and guide poles. They come with torsion axels and radial tires. Spend your money now or spend it (plus some) later. For another couple hundred bucks (even though I don't tow very often), it's worth it to me when you traveling down the highway. The last thing you want is trailer related problems when the fishing is hot or a serious consequence when your laying in a hospital bed because of a serious accident. Just my 2 cents.
Anyhow, I owned a 5 star that was a great value. It is made by loadrite just their less expensive brand. The year 5 star I had came with disk brakes. They now come with drum. However I still think it is less expensive to get a 5 Star and upgrade to the disk than to get the loadrite. I do think the loadrite comes with more rollers standard though.
i got mine aluminum I beam out of florida several years ago. get torsion bars, kodiak brakes. i think the company was towmaster ....different name now. the price then about $2300 for a 7000 lb trailer delivered to shady side. if you look real close not alot of difference between the construction and materials. i have changed the brakes out one time. also bought a lazer temp. gauge at harbor freight......just point and shoot, good way to monitor.
wash em' down after use, kits are available or e-z to make. i have 4 safety chains (cross them) , and also use another safety chain on the winch post. i two but don't like it.
Another vote for a tandem wheeled, disc brake, galvanized, Loadrite trailer, which is under our 23' W/A Cuddy O/B. Ours happens to be rollers.
About that comment above to "ask Dave" (from Glen Burnie?) about aluminum trailers......he can answer for himself, though the only thing I ever heard him say (in jest) was that those aluminum trailers are for the "go fast boats" crowd......
Here is what I was told at Dave's on Monday while I was getting quotes on roller trailers for my boat. They said the life span of AL trailers isnt that of galv trailers. They said around 7 years or so you will see where the dissimilar metals will start corroding around the bolts and pitting in the frames, etc. Guy also claimed that you can expect about 2-3 times the life out of the frame with galvanized. They also said that larger cabin boats create too much flex in the beam of the trailers. Unless you are concerned about towing weight or running a smaller lighter boat, galvanized trailers are the way to go.