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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2 stroke, 50hp mercury outboard engine on a bass boat that I will not be using again until probably late March or early April. I have not had an outboard since I was in my teens (a long time ago) so am not familiar with correct steps to winterize one. I disconnected the fuel line and ran the engine until it stalled out, pulled the plugs and sprayed fogging oil into each cylinder and turned the engine over a few times. All lube points addressed and the outboard is in the down position as well. Is this the correct way to prepare it for the winter?
 

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That is the way we used to do it for yrs. Now some recommend leaving fuel treated with Staybil in carbs.
You did not mention lower unit.. Its best to unscrew lower plug and let a small amount out to check for water before winter.
(water lays at bottom)
If seal is leaking, water could freeze and cause damage.
 

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Better yet - change the fluid each fall. Water tends to emulsify in the LU oil and wll stil crack your LU when it's chilly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That is the way we used to do it for yrs. Now some recommend leaving fuel treated with Staybil in carbs.
You did not mention lower unit.. Its best to unscrew lower plug and let a small amount out to check for water before winter.
(water lays at bottom)
If seal is leaking, water could freeze and cause damage.
My father was a carb. rebuilder and always said not to leave gas in one if it was to be setting up for more than a month or so. The fuel in the tank has been treated with Staybil and an additional additive for ethanol. Lower unit oil was changed in the summer with no sign of water. Fuel line was replaced with one recommended for use with ethanol. For the most part, I use only non-ethanol gasoline.

Thanks to all for responding.
 

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:thumbup: Yep- I would say if you recently changed LU oil and no sign of leak, you have a reasonable expectation that its OK.
( I did not check mine either- I parked boat and plugged in battery charger .. do most of my PM in spring)

But I figured it was good to mention. Along same line, some say to remove prop to 1: check for fishing line 2: add grease between prop and shaft.
Check fuel filter/ water separator.
 

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For those with 4 stroke.... Neighbor said he had fuel pump go bad 2 yrs in row, and mechanic told him, it is important to turn on key (not start) every 2-3 weeks while in storage. It supposed to exercise the fuel pump so it does not lock up. ( he had Yamaha)

I keep forgetting to ask my trusted shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
For those with 4 stroke.... Neighbor said he had fuel pump go bad 2 yrs in row, and mechanic told him, it is important to turn on key (not start) every 2-3 weeks while in storage. It supposed to exercise the fuel pump so it does not lock up. ( he had Yamaha)

I keep forgetting to ask my trusted shop.
If I were going to do this, I would start the engine and run it for about 10 minutes every week or two. Gave some thought to that approach before deciding to just fully winterize it.
 
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